Electronics Third Hand Soldering Stand

cults3d

I based this design on a simple tool my dad had when I was growing up, which he still uses today. I wanted to see if I could create it using 3D printing instead. This tool is perfect for holding small electronic parts while soldering or doing fine work that requires an extra hand. The entire design is 3D printed, except for the alligator clips and lead weights (which are optional). When working with heavier items or when I didn't want the stand to move around, I added a screw clamp. The threaded bar and clamp face clip inside the unit, and you can pull it out and screw it in from the bottom when needed. This jaw can extend up to 65mm. Build instructions - All STL's are set for printing orientation, and no supports are required. Base The base is straightforward and can be made from PLA, PETG, or any other material since it's not structural. I printed it with Prusament Galaxy Black at a .2 layer, 10% infill, and 3 perimeter walls. Lock Block This block holds the screw wheel in place, and there are no specific material preferences here. Wheel & Clamp These are the two parts for the clamping mechanism. I only tested them in PETG since I usually use that plastic type for threaded parts. You could probably get away with PLA since there aren't serious loads involved. Go for at least 50% infill and 3 perimeter layers. Note that I multicolored mine by changing filaments during the print. End Post & Post You'll need 4 end posts for the alligator clips, and 32 regular posts if you follow my example. You can go more or less, depending on your preference. I highly recommend using PETG or a similar material here since PLA was too inflexible and brittle. I did quite a bit of prototyping and found that at least 80% infill with 3 perimeter walls worked best. You could also just go for 100% infill, but it won't make much difference in terms of print time or material usage. When testing with PLA, I had to use brims, but you might not need them with PETG. Make sure to clear the brim material at the base before assembling. UPDATE 02.07.19 - You can also brim it with PETG for more reliability. Additional parts Alligator Clips - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C50TIXC/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Lead Weights - There are 6 holes on the bottom, .45" in diameter. I used .45 caliber lead bullets for reloading and dropped them right into the holes, capped with epoxy. It worked great, so you can use anything that fits in those holes. It's optional, but I decided to use it since I had the bullets around. Assembly Place the wheel into the base, slide the lock block under it. This will require a small flat blade screwdriver to push it in due to the tight fit. You can also pop it out from underneath with a screwdriver if needed. On the alligator clips linked, use pliers to close the ends and then install them into the end posts with glue. Place glue on the bottom of one of the normal posts and install it into each hole on the top of the base. Once the glue is set, snap together the posts in your desired configuration and length. Note that I tested both epoxy and hot glue for assembly and chose hot glue since it's easy to remove if you need to replace a broken post. The hot glue is more than sufficient for both applications. Install the clamp into the base or screw it into the bottom. If you have any questions, let me know! Enjoy! EDIT - 04.30.19 - I've added the Fusion 360 file for the arms for those with S3D who are having issues with the bodies. Feel free to modify as needed.