eLeaf iStick Power 80W "Wireless" Magnetic Charging Dock

prusaprinters

<p>This is a relatively simple design for a "wireless"-ish charging dock for an eLeaf iStick Power 80W e-cigarette.</p> <p>The goal was simple: As the USB charging port is on the bottom of the device, I wanted a dock. However, with one of my old eLeaf e-cigs that similarly had a charging port on the bottom I found it difficult to plug in or remove the device sometimes with the dock I had printed for it. There's also the common problem I see with such docks where the design is based around one singular USB cable. So, I wanted something that would be a bit more generic, and utilize a magnetic tip USB cable so it would be easier to use day to day.</p> <p>The complete dock requires one each of three parts:</p> <p><strong>Shell*: This part attaches to the battery pack itself. The magnetic tip of the USB cable can be left on the battery all the time and the goal of the shell is to provide a flat surface around the tip so you can still stand up the battery. It also provides a static material around the battery, meaning it's far less likely to be scratched up by the repeated insertion into the dock. There is a second hole in the bottom of the shell so the holes on the bottom of the device (which I believe provide some amount of airflow?) are not covered.</strong>Dock<em>: The shell slides into the top of the dock, which houses the actual USB cable. The dock is designed so the USB cable's end can slide thru a whole that's aligned with the magnetic tip that's plugged into the battery. It's made taller so the cable can have room to not overly bend, as well store slack if you'd like. There is a cut out for the cable to run through at the bottom. I also made the dock a bit taller than absolutely necessary this so you can permanently attach the cable's end to the hole with something like hot glue or tape more easily, although I find it's unnecessary with my cable as the cable's pass thru hole provides enough tension on the cable to hold it in place well.<br/> **Dock Bottom</em>: This simply caps off the bottom of the dock. It has a matching hole for the USB cable to pass thru, and has standoffs on the edges so the dock doesn't slide too deep into the dock bottom.<br/> The cable I'm using is available here <a href="http://amzn.com/B07GSNNPVJ?tag=tv-auto-20"></a><a href="http://amzn.com/B07GSNNPVJ?tag=tv-auto-20">http://amzn.com/B07GSNNPVJ</a>. The hole for the cable is tip should be wide enough for any similar cables, but if not you can pretty easily remix the model by just cutting the hole to be larger or adding material where needed.</p> <p>I suggest printing the dock upside and including support material touching the bed. Due to my goals for the design I can't make the dock work without supports, and flipping it upside down minimizes the amount of support material needed. I'm including my PrusaSlicer 3MF file, so if you use PrusaSlicer it should be all ready to go for you.</p> <p>I picked up a two pack of the cables and printed two docks/dock bottoms and a single shell so I could have a dock at work, too. It's working very well for me so far. The biggest issue I have is the shell still allows the magnetic tip to hang out just a hair (quite literally about the width of a hair), but at this point I'm blaming the problem on my printer elephant footing the bottom.</p> <p>Like I said, you can permanently fix the cable in place if you'd like, but I'm leaving mine loose. The tension of the dock and dock bottom on the cable provides enough force to not let the cable slide out too far, and pulling the e-cig out of the dock removes the cable a bit, but putting it back in lets it sink back into place.</p> <h3>Print instructions</h3><h3>Category: Gadgets Summary</h3> <p>This is a relatively simple design for a "wireless"-ish charging dock for an eLeaf iStick Power 80W e-cigarette.</p> <p>The goal was simple: As the USB charging port is on the bottom of the device, I wanted a dock. However, with one of my old eLeaf e-cigs that similarly had a charging port on the bottom I found it difficult to plug in or remove the device sometimes with the dock I had printed for it. There's also the common problem I see with such docks where the design is based around one singular USB cable. So, I wanted something that would be a bit more generic, and utilize a magnetic tip USB cable so it would be easier to use day to day.</p> <p>The complete dock requires one each of three parts:</p> <p><strong>Shell*: This part attaches to the battery pack itself. The magnetic tip of the USB cable can be left on the battery all the time and the goal of the shell is to provide a flat surface around the tip so you can still stand up the battery. It also provides a static material around the battery, meaning it's far less likely to be scratched up by the repeated insertion into the dock. There is a second hole in the bottom of the shell so the holes on the bottom of the device (which I believe provide some amount of airflow?) are not covered.</strong>Dock<em>: The shell slides into the top of the dock, which houses the actual USB cable. The dock is designed so the USB cable's end can slide thru a whole that's aligned with the magnetic tip that's plugged into the battery. It's made taller so the cable can have room to not overly bend, as well store slack if you'd like. There is a cut out for the cable to run through at the bottom. I also made the dock a bit taller than absolutely necessary this so you can permanently attach the cable's end to the hole with something like hot glue or tape more easily, although I find it's unnecessary with my cable as the cable's pass thru hole provides enough tension on the cable to hold it in place well.<br/> **Dock Bottom</em>: This simply caps off the bottom of the dock. It has a matching hole for the USB cable to pass thru, and has standoffs on the edges so the dock doesn't slide too deep into the dock bottom.<br/> The cable I'm using is available here <a href="http://amzn.com/B07GSNNPVJ?tag=tv-auto-20"></a><a href="http://amzn.com/B07GSNNPVJ?tag=tv-auto-20">http://amzn.com/B07GSNNPVJ</a>. The hole for the cable is tip should be wide enough for any similar cables, but if not you can pretty easily remix the model by just cutting the hole to be larger or adding material where needed.</p> <p>I suggest printing the dock upside and including support material touching the bed. Due to my goals for the design I can't make the dock work without supports, and flipping it upside down minimizes the amount of support material needed. I'm including my PrusaSlicer 3MF file, so if you use PrusaSlicer it should be all ready to go for you.</p> <p>I picked up a two pack of the cables and printed two docks/dock bottoms and a single shell so I could have a dock at work, too. It's working very well for me so far. The biggest issue I have is the shell still allows the magnetic tip to hang out just a hair (quite literally about the width of a hair), but at this point I'm blaming the problem on my printer elephant footing the bottom.</p> <p>Like I said, you can permanently fix the cable in place if you'd like, but I'm leaving mine loose. The tension of the dock and dock bottom on the cable provides enough force to not let the cable slide out too far, and pulling the e-cig out of the dock removes the cable a bit, but putting it back in lets it sink back into place.</p> <h3> Print Settings</h3> <p><strong>Printer Brand:</strong> Prusa</p> <p><strong>Printer:</strong> I3 MK3S</p> <p><strong>Rafts:</strong> No</p> <p><strong>Supports:</strong> Yes</p> <p><strong>Resolution:</strong> .2</p> <p><strong>Infill:</strong> 10</p> <p><strong>Filament:</strong> CC3D PLA Silk Green Bronze<br/> <strong>Notes:</strong></p> <p>Infill percent doesn't matter much, printed with a .4mm nozzle at .2 layer height means there's very little infill generated. In the early drafts I printed I used Octolapse on my OctoPi but that generated a good bit of "zit" on the edges that made the dock a bit ugly and made fitting the pieces together a bit more troublesome than necessary.</p>