Egg Bot - Ostrich Bot

prusaprinters

<p>This' my version of Egg Bot, printable 3D printers that accept large. The working range is 160 mm diameter x 200 mm long.<br/> The electronics used to control motors and Engraver is Eggbot original.</p> <p>The design is printed, visible in the photos, is Eggbot Op Art dnewman; Thing: 7099.<br/> Thanks to Dan</p> <p>Video: <a href="http://youtu.be/OCDYA9aj9co">http://youtu.be/OCDYA9aj9co</a></p> <p>Video Engraver: <a href="http://youtu.be/-Eit430iPqc">http://youtu.be/-Eit430iPqc</a></p> <p>Added new Engraver support, wire support, conical support.</p> <h3>Print instructions</h3><h3>Category: DIY Summary</h3> <p>This' my version of Egg Bot, printable 3D printers that accept large. The working range is 160 mm diameter x 200 mm long.<br/> The electronics used to control motors and Engraver is Eggbot original.</p> <p>The design is printed, visible in the photos, is Eggbot Op Art dnewman; Thing: 7099.<br/> Thanks to Dan</p> <p>Video: <a href="http://youtu.be/OCDYA9aj9co">http://youtu.be/OCDYA9aj9co</a></p> <p>Video Engraver: <a href="http://youtu.be/-Eit430iPqc">http://youtu.be/-Eit430iPqc</a></p> <p>Added new Engraver support, wire support, conical support.</p> <h3> Instructions</h3> <p>Glue the two domes to the external slider, the one with the holes goes in the part where there is an ellipse.<br/> I made the external slider into 3 parts to get a better print in the round parts.<br/> The box is screwed connectors on the back below the cursor.<br/> The connectors used are 4-pin (available at electronics stores).<br/> A connector for the engine pasted into the hole in the lid and two pasted into the box, one for the servant (used 3-pin) and one for the motor dell'engraver (used only 2 poles).<br/> The wires coming out from the connector dell'engravewr, go to the two screws on top of the pen arm, where, with the two victims, the wires connecting the arm dell'engraver.<br/> The slider slides on internal threaded rod 6 mm. while the main structure must be fitted with threaded rods 10 mm. 430 mm long.<br/> The coupon of 'engraver should be amended to find accommodation on the left side.<br/> Cut off the part with the existing hole and redo the hole in the center (see photo).<br/> In place of the trimmer 100 kohm to solder two wires that connect a potentiometer, of equal value, which is screwed onto the lid that covers the electronics. In STL there is also the knob to the potentiometer.<br/> Into the hole above the potentiometer is placed the power LED, powered by a servo output free, v. 5. Remember to put in series with a resistance of 620 ohms.<br/> The holes on the left, the cover must be inserted the two plastic buttons that will press the two buttons located on the micro card EIBoard (reset and programming).<br/> Turning the knurled support spearhead the original to make it fit in the arm provided.<br/> The holes media egg from the engine, are glued the brass threaded bushings for 3 But readily available in hardware, while the media are right-handed threaded 6 But to engage the allen that acts as a pivot ..<br/> In support arm, the bushing is 4 Ma<br/> The wires of the motor 2 must be fed into the hole below it.<br/> Look at the structure of the side Left; under the card I planned space for the connecting wires and the hidden passage to the wires of the motor 2.<br/> Servo used Power HD -- HD-1900A<br/> I put a lot of photos that I hope will help to assembly.<br/> Hello...</p>