Easy swap system for Micro 105 FPV Quadcopter

thingiverse

First of all, credit goes out to Punkkills for designing the Micro 105 frame which has been my go-to frame to fly, adapt and build upon. I'm new to 3D design and couldn't have made this from scratch on my own. Updates: 18-3-2017 Added a skillfully painted schematic for Kanata. 31-1-2017 Tested out the version with grommets and it has way less power, so I wouldn't recommend it! 10-1-2017 Added a version which supports 8mm rubber grommets. 29-12-2016 Added a battery holder for Nanotech 600 (untested). 26-12-2016 Added a 7mm version of the frame by request, not tested but should work. I also added the CLI dump as a text file. Why this remix? 3D printing quadcopter frames is convenient, but I always end up breaking a lot of them. While the costs of printing a new one is low, it takes precious time to change the frame which could also be used for flying instead. What I wanted to achieve was a system which allows for quick frame swapping in the field, so I could just bring a few spare frames and parts, keeping repair time down to a minimum. Features: Easy to swap to a new frame (takes around 2 minutes) Modular parts so if you break a battery mount, you can easily replace it and keep flying. Easily adaptable to different FC's, batteries, camera's, and even frames. Good protection of electronics and the cloverleaf antenna if you use the 'Mulletmod'. Great performance, check it out here! Build instructions: Requirements: You are going to need 2x M3 nylon bolts and nuts. Motors need to be direct soldered to the FC, there is no room for connectors. Mullet mod for the cam/vtx is recommended, but I have included a normal camera mount if you haven't done a mulletmod before. (if you haven't, look it up on youtube it's perfect) tip: solder the motors to the underside of the FC. This allows for easy soldering access when replacing a motor. Use some drops of hotglue on the solder points and on the front corners because this is what the FC will rest on when it is 'sandwiched'. The idea is the flightcontroller is secured to the Cameramount and NOT to the frame. You can use double sided tape and a bit of hotglue. The Cameramount+FC is then attached to the frame using 2 nylon bolts. On the bottom side of the frame, the batterybracket is then secured with the 2 nylon nuts. The batteryholder is to be superglued to the batterybracket. Make a few of them so it can't cause you downtime if the mount would snap off in a crash. Now when you want to change the frame, perform maintenance or repairs, you just unscrew the 2 bolts, and off come all the electronics! *almost forgot: there is a little 'tab' at the front of the frame, this is to protect the front of the battery and prevent it from shooting forward in a crash. You can heat this with a lighter and bend it in shape. (careful not to burn your fingers) Designed for parts: Micro SciSky or similar (preferably with integrated receiver to save weight and space) FX798T or similar (if you have a request, let me know, tx03?) 8.5mm motors (Preferably the better ones like MMW, Spintechs, etc.) Battery holder designed to fit Graphene 600 (Again, if you have a request, let me know) Hubsan clear props (ebay) (my favorite) 65mm gemfans also fit perfectly (on the 8.5mm version), but I don't like them. Wait, what..? Did I forget anything? Do you have any questions? Suggestions for batteries/camera mounts? Let me know in the comments! Happy building, flying, and quickswapping it! Print Settings: Printer Brand: Wanhao Printer: Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2 Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: No Resolution: 0.2 Infill: 100% Notes: -Print frame @ 101 or 102% using ABS, depending on your printer. (motors will fit but it's tight) -Support can be useful for the Camera mount with mullet (but not necessary)