E3Dv6 Clone Drop In Bowden Carriage for Tronxy P802MA

thingiverse

This is the Thingiverse link in case you need to modify it to fit your printer. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1570168\r\n\r\nI wanted to upgrade my Tronxy P802MA to use the E3Dv6 hot end with a Bowden extruder without modifying my firmware, so I came up with an upgrade that only required purchasing an E3Dv6 clone.\r\n\r\nI based this carriage on http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1570168 and modified it for the cable clamp from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2351679\r\n\r\nKeep in mind that some E3Dv6 clones have differences, so these specs are specific to my clone and designed around them.\r\nNeck Gap: 6mm\r\nHeight from top (without tube adapter) to nozzle tip: 62.45mm\r\n\r\nThe fan and bed sensor mounts allow a few mm of movement up or down for fine-tuning.\r\n\r\nI'd like to thank Thingiverse member EnumC for recommending that I lower the belt clamp, which was holding the belt too high and causing binding issues. I redesigned the clamp and combined it with a 2-piece bearing bushing that replaces the bottom SC8UU bushing. To use it, you'll need 4 x M4 screws to secure the top and bottom halves of the part.\r\n\r\nI only had to purchase the E3Dv6 clone, as all other parts are from the stock P802MA. Here's how I upgraded:\r\n1. Remove any filament and let everything cool down.\r\n2. Raise the X carriage as high as possible on the Z axis for easier disassembly.\r\n3. Unplug the extruder motor wire.\r\n4. Remove the fans and hang them by their wires for now.\r\n5. Unscrew the 2 screws at the bottom of the carriage that hold the motor in, then remove it.\r\n6. Unscrew the head assembly from the extruder part on the motor, where the Bowden tube adapter will go.\r\n7. Unscrew the stock carriage from the bearings.\r\n8. Get the 3 printed parts.\r\n9. Attach the bearing bushing / belt clamp using 4 x 4mm screws, making sure to put a bearing in it before tightening. You can remove the bearing from the aluminum bushing you no longer need. This link provides better pictures of this bushing / belt clamp: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2553168\r\n10. Attach the carriage to the bearings, using 2 screws per bearing. Make sure they're positioned correctly and tightened a little at a time, checking for smooth movement until the carriage is tight against the bearings with no gaps.\r\n11. Press the E3Dv6 hot end into the carriage with the part of the hot end that sticks out facing forward and the wires coming out of the right side. If your hot end is different, just do what works best for you. *If you overextruded, this might be a tight fit; you may need to sand or cut a little with a razor.\r\n12. Put the second part of the carriage over the hot end and secure it firmly using 2 3mx20mm screws and nuts, leaving as small a gap as possible. You just want to make sure these pieces are holding the hot end in place so it won't move.\r\n13. Attach the fan and bed sensor.\r\n14. Find a spot for your motor and mount it. There are a few mounts on Thingiverse, but I'll be making one soon. For now, I used double-sided foam tape and a clamp, and the motor with the extruder is holding on just fine.\r\n15. Once you've settled on a spot for the motor, cut the plastic tube so it doesn't coil up when fully extended. Be careful not to make it too short - you can always cut more off but you can't add any back. Use a sharp razor to carefully cut, not scissors or wire cutters.\r\n16. Attach the wire to the motor and tidy up the wires going to the carriage. You can use velcro to secure the wires to the carriage like in the pictures.\r\n17. Calibrate things as you normally would. Your nozzle is a couple mm closer to the front of the bed, so don't try printing a full 220mm. Sorry, but this is as close as I could get it.\r\n\r\nLet me know if something's broken or needs tweaking. Maybe I can make a few versions if there are different sizes of these E3Dv6 heads.