E3D V6 Watercooling without groovemount

thingiverse

A DIY Water Cooled Heatsink for E3D Hotend. After scouring numerous websites, I came across some valuable information that inspired me to create my own water cooling block. Here are a few resources: * https://well-engineered.net/index.php/en/86-community-water-cooling * https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:247599 * http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?336,765316 * http://www.instructables.com/id/Water-Cool-Your-3D-Printer-Nozzle-the-Cheap-and-Easy-Way/ * https://forum.e3d-online.com/threads/e3d-water-cooled-mod.53/ With these ideas in mind, I designed and built a prototype water cooling block without the use of a lathe. To replicate my design, you'll need: * A E3DV6 heatsink (or a compatible clone) * Cold solder joints * A B20 jacket (approximately 5 euros on eBay) * An M7 bolt (this can be challenging to find; in France, try searching old hinges) You will also require: * A lathe or a cheap drill that you can sacrifice for this project * A file * Sandpaper * A saw * Knowledge of basic lathing techniques The process is straightforward: 1. Cut the head of the bolt. 2. Cut the groovemount (if using my recommended mount) in Phase 1. 3. Screw the bolt into the heatsink. 4. Attach the bolt to a drill chuck. 5. Mount the drill to your workbench. 6. Turn the part as if it were being machined on a lathe (be cautious, as this is the most challenging step) in Phase 2. 7. Inspect the external diameter of the part; it should measure 20 mm. 8. Once the part is complete, fill the 20mm fins with cold solder joints. Be sure to overfill the area, as excess material is not a concern at this point. 9. Place the part back in the drill and turn it until it reaches a 20 mm diameter again in Phase 3. 10. Drill the heatsink using a drill jig in Phase 4. 11. Clean the part with demineralized water. 12. Attach the B20 jacket, fill it with water, and let it sit for a night to ensure proper sealing before use