E3d Titan Aqua mount for Prusa i3 Mk3 version 2

thingiverse

A New Version Is Now Available with Original Print Volume Restored! See It Here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3640021 After Running My Titan Aqua for Several Months, I Realized the Firmware Was a Mistake - It Had to Be Fixed! Here's What Happened: I Flashed New Firmware and Suddenly, XYZ Calibration Became Impossible Due to PINDA Sensor Location. Time to Get Creative! A Rearrangement of the Printer Was Needed to Put the PINDA Sensor Back in Its Original Spot. This Also Freed Up Some Room for Better Prints. The New Version Moves the Nozzle 42mm in the Y-Axis - See Firmware Modifications Below. I've Run This Setup for Months Now, and I'm Extremely Happy with It So Far. A Low-Profile Heated Bed Wire Clamp Has Been Added to the Thing Files. It's Based on a Previous Thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2837970, Released in the Prusa Lack Enclosure. However, This One Is 5mm Shorter and Clears the Head During Mesh Bed Leveling. All Prints Can Be Printed Without Support - Except for the Idler Body with Filament Sensor. I'm Working on Getting My New MMU 2 Upgrade Working with This Setup, Stay Tuned for Updates! At This Moment, I've Figured Out a Solution That Should Allow the Autoload Routine to Work Reliably. When I Get the MMU Going, I'll Update the Firmware Mods Listed Below as Well. The Only Other Hardware Modification Was to Open Up the Wire Pathway in the Extruder Back Cover Slightly. A Small Drill Bit (About 4mm) Was Used to Clear Two 4mm Nylon Coolant Tubes Without Crimping Them. As It Stands, One Tube Is Transparent While the Other Is Black. The Black Tube Is More Flexible, But I Wanted a Transparent Tube as a Coolant Indicator. I've Got the Tubes Running with All My Wiring into the Electronics Housing Through the Extruder Cable Assembly and Out the Bottom of the Electronics Case. Avoid Using Splicing Unions on the Tubes Above the Electronics to Prevent Future Water Damage! A Logic Level Relay Controls My 12V Pump from the Extruder Fan Connector. I'm Working on Getting a Flow Sensor Connected to Restore the Fan Signal - I'll Post Details Once That's Working. Currently, the Fan Check Mode Is Off Under Settings in the Printer LCD Menu. You May Consider Keeping the Noctua Fan Connected and Blowing Over Your Einsy Board. My Ambient Temp Often Reaches the High 50s When Printing CPE or ABS Inside My Enclosure.