E3d Titan Aqua Fixture for Prusa i3 Mk3 version 3

thingiverse

After nine months of successful printing with previous versions of the Titan Aqua fixture, I decided I'd had enough of the constant firmware updates. With my mk3s upgrade, it was time to get this fixture made right once and for all. I re-spun the extruder one last time to place the nozzle within 5mm of its factory location and tucked the coolant lines into the carriage more snugly to maximize print volume. The original print volume is restored with full range in the y-axis, plus 8mm in the z-axis. As a result, no firmware modifications are necessary to run this setup, and all factory calibrations work flawlessly. Building this extruder requires a bit more effort than previous iterations, but I think it's worth it to avoid opening Arduino every time there's an update. Another feature of this version is a brand-new fan unit that incorporates the fan mount and nozzle into a single piece with built-in supports. This fan unit provides maximum airflow directed around the extruder nozzle while minimizing its footprint. In the near future, I'll be releasing more updates to incorporate the new filament sensor for the mk3s. Stay tuned! I've also included g-code to print all files with enforced supports at 0.2mm using PETG with mk3 settings, EPT 9 hours. #Setup Print all parts without supports. I printed with Prusament PETG at 0.2mm speed setting in Slic3r PE, and the total print time was about 8 hours. After printing, remove three support pieces from the fan unit and one support piece from the extruder mount where the coolant tube runs. #Disassembly Remove the complete extruder assembly from the printer. You'll be replacing the entire x-carriage. Follow Prusa's instructions here: https://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/2.+Extruder+disassembly/1059?lang=en. #Assembly Install all nuts in the slots provided in the x-carriage, x-carriage back, and extruder mount. Secure the x-carriage to the top linear bearings using zip ties. Start the first nylon cooling tube in the hole provided in the cable passage before installing the extruder mount. At this time, you should have one hose poking out of the left side of the x-carriage and three bolts holding the extruder mount to the x-carriage. Assemble your Titan Aqua with the stepper motor cables facing the rear (left side if you're facing the motor). I found that using the E3D stepper can cause problems with linear advance active on older firmware versions, but this might be fixed. I use the Prusa stepper motor on my setup. Make sure to flip two wires on one pole before connecting to prevent needing to invert the extruder direction in firmware. See here for more info: https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?12,31104. I also recommend using the Bondtech idler upgrade that uses the Bondtech idler gear for the idler pulley. The profile cut into the gear allows better automatic feeding when using the MMU2(S). Your heater block should be biased toward the front with the wires coming out of the left side farthest from the PINDA probe. Route the cables under the x-carriage and tie them into the channel with a 3mm zip tie. Mount the lower 4mm bolt on the extruder so the extruder pivots in the mount. Gently install the nylon coolant hose on the back side, taking care to prevent crimps in the hose. This is the most delicate operation of the assembly process. At this time, the extruder should be mounted with one hose connected, the motor and fan cables on the left, and the heater and thermistor cables on the bottom. Install the PINDA probe into its holder with the wire looped on the inside of the probe as directed by Prusa. Push the remaining coolant line through its hole in the x-carriage below the lower bolt and loop it around between the fan and extruder to connect it to the front coolant fitting. Install the x belt in the carriage, gather all the cables and tubes, and pass them through the hole in the x-carriage-back without crimping or damaging any cables. Install the x-carriage back and cable shroud. Pass the coolant lines through the bottom of the Einsey case and connect all wires. #Setup After the hardware is in place, all you need to do is send M92 E840 to set your steps per mm and then calibrate your first layer height. I ran an XYZ calibration to make sure everything worked, but it might not be a bad idea for you too. Make sure you flipped two wires on your motor connector as mentioned above or your extruder will run backwards.