DS1302 Rotating LED Clock Module Housing (Modular... Sort of!)

thingiverse

Human: _________\r\nNote: If you choose to make one for yourself, then make sure you buy the three-button, SMD LED type. Otherwise, it probably won't fit the case!\r\n__________\r\n\r\nI picked up a pre-assembled DS1302 clock module from eBay at an affordable price. I chose this specific version because it featured small SMD LEDs, which looked sleeker than traditional types.\r\n\r\nAlthough it's considered cheating, I opted for the pre-assembled unit due to my declining eyesight and somewhat shaky hands, making it difficult for me to successfully solder tiny components like SMD LEDs.\r\n\r\nMy initial case designs were based on existing ones from Thingiverse. While they functioned properly, they lacked style. They were square in both shape and appearance, resembling many other designs I'd seen. To create a unique look, I aimed to design a case reminiscent of the classic wind-up Smiths clock that my Dad had when I was a child. Even though I designed a non-functional bell assembly for the top, I decided against it as it wouldn't have been a winner in the Nobel Prize department ("no bell," get it? See what I did there?!).\r\n\r\nAfter designing the main case, I felt it needed more embellishments. My first addition was to create an infill piece covering most of the central circuit board. Initially, I made it black, but this gave the entire design a dark and monolithic appearance.\r\n\r\nReprinting the infill in white improved the design; it now resembled an old 45 record. However, I still felt it was too dark, so I reprinted the back in white as well – although this had little effect on the front view. To soften the design further, I thought a bezel would be beneficial, and to break up the dominance of black on the face even more, I decided to mark the quarters with single bars.\r\n\r\nI considered adding numerals like 12, 3, 6, and 9 but then realized that only the seconds LED setting provided rotating time indication. I didn't want the quadrant marked in units of 15, so plain bars it was.\r\n\r\nYou'll need to file out the PCB locating holes because when I created my first design, I made a mistake: The locating pins for the PCB didn't align! So, measure twice and print once. In my case, I cured this by simply enlarging the holes with a needle file. But when I came to do this design, I had no idea where the original holes would have been.\r\n\r\nThe rear of the case has positions for two screws to secure the back piece in place. However, I managed to get the tolerance right so that it's a friction fit. Hopefully, it works out well for you too. The hole for the Mini USB plug is slightly tight – it fits on one of my leads but required relieving to work with all others. So keep your needle files handy!\r\n\r\nIf you decide to use the bezel, it will sit nicely at the bottom of the face due to a friction fit, but might tend to separate at the top. To prevent this, I recommend using superglue to secure it in place.\r\n\r\nSince publishing this design, I discovered an old, transparent, red document wallet and used it to create a makeshift display lens. By layering three pieces of this material, I was able to darken the digital readout sufficiently without dimming the illuminated segments. This saved me from buying a proper display lens.\r\n\r\nI apologize for the subpar pictures. It was a gloomy winter morning, and I wanted to avoid using flash as it would have overwhelmed the LEDs and ruined their effect. The room light helped, but they still aren't great photos!\r\n\r\nNow that it's in my living room, I think it will give any visitors something to talk about while they admire its unique design!