
Drywall 90 degree curved/fillet ceiling support boning rib
prusaprinters
<p>They sell kits for this, but they are expensive, and were too thick to go around the protruding pipe in my ceiling. So I whipped up this simple support rib so I could make the curve low-profile, and re-use some of my spare drywall at the same time.</p><p>Each rib takes around an hour to print using a 0.8 nozzle and 0.32 layer height. I am using PLA+ for this.</p><p>Usage Steps: <br>1. Cut a piece of drywall that is the correct length for your wall, and approximately 44cm (17.5 inches) wide. (You can also use flexible sheets to get a smoother curve and avoid having to remove the top of the existing drywall! Skip to step 3 in that case!) </p><p>2. Score the BACK of the drywall to create an odd number of 4cm (1.5inch) segments along the length of your piece, with longer pieces on the edges. <br>For a 4cm spacing, you should have 9 segments (8 cuts) with the following width pattern (cm):<br>8-4-4-4-4-4-4-4-8 <br>(The sample picture only show a piece with 4cm at each edge, but you'll want it longer (8cm) for easier attachment to the studs in step 6!) </p><p>3. Drive a standard drywall screw through the centre of the centre segment (bolded above) and into the provided centre-hole on the printed rib. </p><p>4. Using ‘liquid nails’ (or any other drywall glue), adhere the remainder of the segments to the inside curve of the rib. </p><p>5. Repeat at approx 30cm (1 foot) intervals along the length of your scored drywall </p><p>6. Using the 2 outer segments of drywall (8cm), affix your fillet/curved segment to the studs on your wall and celing. Cut away any other drywall at the edge/top of your wall and affix directly to the studs! (unless you are using a flexible sheet, in which case, just put it over the existing drywall and use drywall tape to make the transition) </p><p>7. Using drywall mud, smooth out the segments in your segmented curve to look more gradual. Tape and mud the edges to the existing pieces of drywall.<br> </p>
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