Drybox for any filament size rolls up to 2200 Gr. - Rolls (especcially PVA)

thingiverse

This is my first post here and I hope it adds to the 1000 beautiful things already here. This drybox really saves me a lot of trouble because I learned the hard way that even in Europe, there's too much humidity for PVA to last a while. After a gazillion times cleaning cloaked nozzles, I finally figured out why this would happen - humidity! The PVA slowly absorbs water from the air and becomes useless. When the filament starts to hiss and zizzle, it's a good indicator that the filament is full of water. Now you have two options: wait and pray for your prints to finish well or unmount the PVA-Roll and put it in an oven for 2 hours at 50c. A better solution is this dry-box. You could buy one from a local dealer now, but making one yourself is really great because you get to create something of your own. Choose the color and off you go! First, start printing the parts: bottom 1a male, bottom 1b twice, abschlussstuck links, abschlussstuck rechts, bridge for a+b twice, bridge for the middle, element 1a, element 1b, holder for the drybox twice. Repeat this print two times because you'll need one at each side of the roll. Make sure to glue them together only when they're seated in the proper openings. Once the glue is dry, continue gluing on the "holder for the rolls" on each side... If you're using 750gr rolls (standard), you probably won't need the "feet" that I added, but if you want, you can print them nonetheless and glue them to the bottom. This way, you'll have space to throw some silica-gel packs at the bottom without disturbing the rolls from rolling off... For the heat mat, I added the "heizbetthalterung." Feel free to use them or create your own. It could be an advantage to print four of them and glue them on with the heat mat already there so that you don't need to do any alignment or have distance problems once the holders are glued on wrong places. For additional stability, I used abrasive paper to roughen the plastic of the box so the glue would hold better... Last but not least, you could print the "wandhangaeinrichtung a" and the "wandhangaeinrichtung b" if you want to use the drybox only for one roll. Then, glue the "halterung für die trockenbox" onto the "wandhangaeinrichtung b," and then you can glue the "wandhangaeinrichtung a" to the walls of the box you bought. Make sure they're levelled right. Then, you can even trim the height depending on the diameter of your roll... FOR THE PRINT "Wandhangaeinrichtung a", YOU WILL NEED PVA-SUPPORT or alike... Keep in mind that these files for the above-mentioned drybox are built modular. So, you can print and add as much rollholders as you like... Let me know what you think and good luck. You can save some time if you print things parallel so you wouldn't do all the steps I just explained one after another... but that's limited to your build volume. Just decide that on your own... Greetings, and have a nice Christmas time soon! Greetings Daniel! PS: Don't forget to buy at least the following things to complete the dry-box: * One bowden tube holder for your filament size * Bowden tube to guide out your filament (if you use more outlets, don't forget to close them properly if you don't use them) * One heat mat. You can order one from a shop for animals. They have those in stock for lizards and other creepy animals that exist and need additional heat! * Silica gel pads (but I think if you print a bit, you would already have a ton of it because they always add one pack in a roll) * One hygrometer. You could get one at the same spot where you would have bought the heat mat. Don't forget to reclose the holes with glue or silicone once you've drilled one for the bowdentube holder, or the power-cable of the heat mat. If you want, you can leave the hygrometer inside the box if you can read the display well enough...