drooloop flowers - customizable

youmagine

Featured on the Ultimaker blog! https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20921-drooloop-flowersThese prints are really fun to design and print. Each print job is enjoyable because there's an element of randomness. The randomness comes from deliberately "printing in the air" to create the "drooloops" (droop+loop) that make these flowers look so amazing.I have uploaded both OpenSCAD design file AND the G-code files for ten different flower shapes that you can download and print right away. I used a naming system, so you should be able to see images of the design that goes with the G-code. The files print 4 flowers at a time, and I even adjusted the fan control so you'll get nice symmetrical flowers like the ones you see in my pictures. Just try to match the filament diameter you are using (±0.05mm) to the name of the G-code files. I found that the G-code files will work with a range of diameters, since the majority of the printing is just drooloops. *********UPDATE June 2016!************ I added some new GCodes file for the UM2+ using different nozzle sizes and updated the OpenSCAD file to make creating flowers for different size nozzles easier. Also, I found that bed leveling is VERY important to getting a good print, so I uploaded my bed leveling files here. These make it very easy to get your bed perfectly level in minutes without screwing around with paper. Read the info here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bed-level-on-the-fly-print-pattern For those who love to tinker and want to make their own unique flowers, I have also uploaded all my source files, detailed instructions, and a video tutorial on how I modify the G-code file with a simple text editor. You can control the nozzle path and get these results by choosing model dimensions and slicer settings that compliment each other. A quick way to dial in your slicer settings VS petal widths is to use a calibration comb where each tooth is a different width and they cover a range of widths. Get one here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/custom-calibration-comb-openscadI also want a nice thick drooloop so I never print finer than 0.2mm layer height. If you want to use different settings, look at the advance setting area when generating your model. For more symmetrical flowers - turn fan off once the petals start printing. If you don't turn off the fan, it will be okay - your flowers may have a wind-blown effect since the petals may drift in the direction of the fan (see "Makes" for windy flowers). If you want, you can turn off the fan by watching the printer and turning off the fan with your controller (if you have one), BUT my favorite method is to quickly and simply modify the G-code file with a simple text editor. This way I can print a bunch and know it will always work. Using a basic text editor, open the G-code text file and make these changes: Turn off the fans on the layer just before the petals start to print. I usually add a comment to the layer name like "mark turned off fans" and then add right below that: M106 S0 M107 This is kinda overkill, but I do it like that anyway. You can get the layer number needed by simple math: p_start_height/p_height=layer# petals start OR by using the layer viewer.Search DOWN through the rest of the print looking for "M106" and just "comment out" those lines by adding a semicolon to the start of them... so when you see: M106 S58 you make it say; M106 S58 Depending on your slicer, settings, model, etc..you may or may not find a lot of these fan speed commands. Note: Make sure the changes are in the "petal printing area", since a full-document search and replace may turn off the fan before you want it to. Here's a video that will help make this more clear: