Dreamcatcher Prop Guard

thingiverse

Snap-in propeller guard intended for Dreamcatcher 3D-Printed quadcopter frame, but with the help of customizer, can also be applied to other quads as well. This design is based on '3DFly prop guard' by Mikadoh, making it suitable for that application too. Additions to the original version include: ability to position mounting pin at any point on bottom face of motor bracket ability to position flex cutout at any point on bottom face of motor bracket ability to optionally print a small web across base of cutout area, which allows drilling/reaming motor mounting hole out to a precise diameter. The web helps keep the clip from spreading while reaming. Web should be clipped/cut after reaming to desired diameter. ability to fillet joints/corners, at a chosen fillet radius, which significantly strengthens these areas guard coverage up to 360 degrees ability to add a 3rd arm between the 2 outside arms, for added strength Note that for a 360 degree guard, the arm_angle should be set a bit over 360. (try 362 - some experimentation may be needed, depending on your arm length, guard width and fillet radius). Also note that if using the center arm, the cut_r (cut rotation) angle must be adjusted, so that the cut doesn't end up in the middle of the 3rd arm. My personal favorite setup is arms at 220 degrees, with the middle arm added. Cutout at 55 degrees, motor height and thickness of 2.5mm, guard height 1.5mm, guard width 2mm, arm base height 2mm, arm base width 3mm. Printed in PLA with infill of 20%, these are coming out 1.5g each. Considering that I can bounce off most things that I hit, it's worth the extra few grams to not constantly be having to retrieve and reassemble the quad. Thinner/lighter versions can be built via customizer (under 1g each), but these will not be nearly as durable in crashes. YMMV on the motor pin width - you'll probably want to measure the gap between the frame sides, right behind the motor, and customize the pin width to match your particular frame measurement - it should be a very snug fit - you should need to press the pin down into the gap firmly, as this helps hold it in place. I always print my motor pins a teeny bit wide, then fine tune each one with a file for the best fit on each individual arm. // Motor clip internal diameter motor_d = 8.5; // Motor clip height motor_h = 2.5; // Motor clip thickness motor_t = 2.5; // Motor clip pin height pin_h = 5; // Motor clip pin width pin_w = 7; // Motor clip pin rotation around Z pin_r = 0; // Motor clip cut width cut_w = 4; // Motor clip cut solid base cut_b = 0.4; // Motor clip cut rotation around Z cut_r = 55; // Guard height guard_h = 1.5; // Guard width guard_w = 2; // Arm length from motor center arm_l = 35; // Arm base height arm_base_h = 2; // Arm base width arm_base_w = 3; // Angle between the two arms arm_a = 220; // Add center arm center_arm = 1; //[0:False, 1:True] // Fillet radius fillet_r = 3; Print Settings Printer Brand: Printrbot Printer: Simple Black Infill: I use 25% infill, for weight savings Post-Printing Ream the motor mounting hole out to the desired diameter, using a drill bit (I twist the bit by hand, and/or run it in reverse in a drill, to prevent biting too much off...). Printing the cutout base web helps in attaining a precise diameter with the drill bit. After reaming, cut the thin web piece out with a knife or small cutters. The motor pin fit should be snug, and may need individual adjustment with a file to get a good fit on each arm. (Just a few passes with a file on the sides of the pin, so that each one fits snugly, but doesn't open up the motor holder.) I personally use small zip ties on each motor arm, as the motors tend to turn in the motor holders over time. The zip ties can also help keep pressure on the guard motor pins. How I Designed This Mikadoh's original design is a really nice bit of OpenSCAD work. This was my first introduction to OpenSCAD, and Mikadoh's work proved to be highly educational.