Drawing Machine

prusaprinters

<p>My take on Misan's drawing machine. I made one with a grbl controller and a CNC shield and adapted Misan's parts to be 3D printed.</p> <p>Please read Misan's instructions as well.</p> <p>The drawing machine is a small three axis robot that controls a pen or any drawing implement over a canvas. It is a complete open source design and aims to teach the basics of robotics.</p> <p>Budget for one is about 80$. You will need a 3D printer.</p> <p>The Z stage does not use a servo, as in Misan's machine, but rather one of those cheap 28BYJ stepper motors you can find for 1.50$ on eBay.</p> <p>NOTE: The photos are of the current prototype, some of the modifications to the various bits and pieces have not yet been tested.</p> <p>If you have a question, first search in the Comments section. If you can't find an answer, then ask in a Comment. I will answer as fast and as much as I can.</p> <p>And please, share your makes!</p> <h3>Print Settings</h3> <p><strong>Printer:</strong></p> <p>Wanhao i3 Duplicator</p> <p><strong>Rafts:</strong></p> <p>Doesn't Matter</p> <p><strong>Supports:</strong></p> <p>No</p> <p><strong>Resolution:</strong></p> <p>0.2 mm</p> <p><strong>Infill:</strong></p> <p>15% minimum</p> <p><strong>Filament:</strong> Your favourite filament brand PLA</p> <p><strong>Notes:</strong></p> <p>The Y end stops take a lot of tension from the belt. Making them as strong as possible to prevent flexing is not a bad idea.</p> <h3>How I Designed This</h3> <p>This thing was made with Tinkercad. Get it <a href="https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9lmwyFJ4Kpc">here</a>.</p> <h3>How-to</h3> <p><strong>Grocery list</strong></p> <p>Definitely<strong>not</strong> <a href="http://shop.evilmadscientist.com/productsmenu/846">475$ worth of parts</a>...</p> <p>Below are some searches on eBay that you could use for your own machine. I am not affiliated with any of the vendors that those searches may yield. Please proceed with caution on eBay.</p> <h5>You will need:</h5> <p>1 x Arduino (any <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Arduino+UNO+R3+ATmega328P+CH340">cheap clone</a> will do) with USB cable</p> <p>1 x <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Arduino+CNC+Shield+GRBL">CNC shield</a>. Look for the ones with included jumpers. It's a drag when you don't have them and you need to configure microstepping.</p> <p>3 x <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Stepper+driver+A4988">Stepper drivers</a></p> <p>1 x 12V power supply (the one I have is a quite beefy 12.5A, salvaged from another project)</p> <p>4 x <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=8mm+optical+rod">8 mm diameter rods</a>, any length you want (by pairs though). I used 2 x 400mm for X and 2 x 300 mm for Y (recycled from printers and scanners.) With these lengths, and the new Z stage, I get about 312(X) x 212(Y) x 23(Z) mm of workspace.</p> <p>2 x X lengths of 10 mm (or 3/8") threaded rod, with associated bolts, washers and nuts</p> <p>8 x <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=LM8UU+linear+bearing">LM8UU linear bearings</a></p> <p>2 x <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=nema17+stepper">NEMA 17 steppers</a></p> <p><a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Ramps+Wiring++Kit">Cables and connectors</a></p> <p>5 x <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=10mm+idler+pulley+smooth+gt2">smooth idler pulleys</a> (16 teeth or 10 mm, 3 mm bore)</p> <p>2 x <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=GT2+timing+pulley+5mm+bore+16+teeth">pulleys</a> (16 teeth, 5 mm bore) (you can also use 20 teeth with different grbl settings)</p> <p><a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=GT2+belt">GT2 belt</a>: to know how much you need, add your X to your Y, multiply by two and add two inches for luck</p> <p>An assortment of M3 bolts in various length and their nuts</p> <h5>For the Z stage:</h5> <p>1 x <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=28BYJ">28BYJ</a> stepper motor (5V or 12V)</p> <p>1 x M5 bolt to secure the pen to the Z carriage</p> <p>2 x 60+ mm of <a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=6mm+optical+rod">6 mm diameter rod</a> (I got mine from an old scanner)</p> <p><strong>Model Files</strong></p> <p>For some reason, when you upload OBJ to Thingiverse, objects are rotated 90 degrees (clockwise) around the X axis. Rotate -90 degrees in your slicer before printing. Of course, the two model files that are in the STL format (they come directly from Misan's model) are not rotated. Go figure...</p> <p>If you experience difficulties with the OBJ format, go to TinkerCad <a href="https://www.tinkercad.com/things/9lmwyFJ4Kpc">here</a>, copy the project to your account and export to STL.</p> <p><strong>Assembly</strong></p> <p>Before installing the stepper drivers on the CNC shield, install jumpers for <a href="https://blog.protoneer.co.nz/arduino-cnc-shield-v3-00-assembly-guide/#Jumpers">microstepping</a>. I installed all three jumpers on the three axis. Such precision may not be necessary for the Z axis.</p> <p>The 28BYJ can be 5V or 12V. It does not matter (see <a href="http://blog.inventables.com/p/stepper-motors.html">this article</a>).</p> <p>You may have to open the stepper to cut a trace on its PCB to disconnect the red wire (see <a href="http://www.jangeox.be/2013/10/change-unipolar-28byj-48-to-bipolar.html">here</a>) and use: orange, pink, blue, yellow, in that order (blue, yellow, orange, pink should work too) Adjust the potentiometer on A4988 counter-clockwise until the motor runs but does not overheat (<a href="https://www.pololu.com/product/1182">check this article for details</a>).</p> <p>The last model file and photograph show (hopefully) how it all fits together.</p> <p><strong>grbl</strong></p> <p>You will need to re-<a href="https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Compiling-Grbl">compile grbl</a> to activate CoreXY control.</p> <p>Before you compile, change config.h as such:</p> <p>#define HOMING_CYCLE_0 (1&lt;<x_axis) #define="" (1<<y_axis)<="" homing_cycle_1="" p=""> <p>// and this below goes uncommented #define COREXY</p> <p><strong>Control Software</strong></p> <p>For control, I am using <a href="https://github.com/cheton/cnc">bCNC</a>. Neat package.</p> <p>I use Inkscape with <a href="http://www.cnc-club.ru/gcodetools">Gcodetools extension</a> to generate gcode. YMMV.</p> <p><strong>grbl Settings (YMMV)</strong></p> <p>$4=0 (step enable invert, bool)</p> <p>$5=0 (limit pins invert, bool)</p> <p>$6=0 (probe pin invert, bool)</p> <p>$10=3 (status report mask:00000011)</p> <p>$11=0.010 (junction deviation, mm)</p> <p>$12=0.002 (arc tolerance, mm)</p> <p>$13=0 (report inches, bool)</p> <p>$20=0 (soft limits, bool)</p> <p>$21=1 (hard limits, bool)</p> <p>$22=0 (homing cycle, bool)</p> <p>$23=0 (homing dir invert mask:00000000)</p> <p>$24=25.000 (homing feed, mm/min)</p> <p>$25=500.000 (homing seek, mm/min)</p> <p>$26=250 (homing debounce, msec)</p> <p>$27=1.000 (homing pull-off, mm)</p> <p>$100=96.000 (x, step/mm) or<em>80.000 if you used 20 teeth pulleys</em></p> <p>$101=96.000 (y, step/mm) or<em>80.000 if you used 20 teeth pulleys</em></p> <p>$102=814.000 (z, step/mm)</p> <p>$110=20000.000 (x max rate, mm/min)</p> <p>$111=20000.000 (y max rate, mm/min)</p> <p>$112=2200.000 (z max rate, mm/min)</p> <p>$120=200.000 (x accel, mm/sec^2)</p> <p>$121=50.000 (y accel, mm/sec^2)</p> <p>$122=200.000 (z accel, mm/sec^2)</p> <p>$130=212.000 (x max travel, mm)</p> <p>$131=312.000 (y max travel, mm)</p> <p>$132=23.000 (z max travel, mm)</p> <p><strong>Extensions and Derivatives</strong></p> <p>For stronger Y axis ends, see <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1658267">Drawing Machine - thicker walls for rod fix screws</a> by FiX2k.</p> <p>For cable management see <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2103228">Simple tube system for the Drawing machine</a> by Valiox.</p> <p>To secure the drawing machine see <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2084664">Drawing machine brackets</a> by RC-3D, and also <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2407274">Clamp for Drawing Machine</a> by Floppynator.</p> <p>For an alternative Z stage using LM8UU bearings see <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1853201">Drawing Machine, LM8UU derivative</a> by gigl.</p> <p>Thank you guys for your contributions!</p> <p>This video was made by 3DMake. It shows the assembly step by step. Nice work!</p> <h3>Updates</h3> <p>20190224 Moved to new TinkerCad format</p> <p>20171118 New video by 3D Make</p> <p>20171112 New "Assembly" and "Extensions and Derivatives" sub-sections in the "How-to".</p> <p>20160910 Alternative Z stage that uses metal LM6UU linear bearings. The bearings should snap in their receptacles. Tinkercad model is here.</p> <p>20160614 New Z stage, now integrated into the Y end. Unimaginatively called "v2". Same gear, same pen holder, a bit stronger, a bit better (one less part, less screws).</p> </x_axis)></p> Category: 3D Printing