DM Screen with Dice Tower

thingiverse

Dice Tower and DM Screen March 7, 2018 Missing Dice Tray STL file has been added back in. February 14, 2018 Added Parts!! A grandson's insistence led to the addition of a roof, which required raising it, creating an additional storage area. Minor issues with the tower were fixed, including ramps extending above crenellations and thin crenellations. Talking about storage, I modified the base to extend under the dice tray, doubling that storage space. It now holds pens or more dice. This mainly prevents someone from overturning the set by pressing down on the tray. The entire system, as shown, used just under a 1Kg roll of grey PLA, plus some black. The tower can be printed with or without the attachment for the screen. Printing it without provides a standalone tower that could be used by players. Everything can be printed without supports, as only required supports are built-in. However, supports may improve areas like the drawer opening for the base and the arms on the dice tray. If you prefer to use your slicer's generated supports for the frames, separate the parts (split command in Slic3r) and delete the two support pieces. The current design needs a razor knife to remove the supports, but they leave a clean surface which is essential as it's a mating surface. The base has a top mainly for when it's separated and if used to store parts or dice in. It's a tight fit, and I used a bit of superglue from the inside. This is the only part that's glued; everything else is either attached with screws and nuts or is simply a snap fit. When assembling the frames, notice that the sides have a small "L" and "R" near the bottom on one side. This will help you to orient the pieces so that the block lines all line up. If the pencil holders are not used, you may need to print more than one set of the "small parts" to get more end caps although you can assemble without them. I printed the wall art on colored card stock. I recommend card stock for both the inside and outside. I also used a commercial service (Staples) to print the inside pages on a color laser. That cost about $3 on card stock, $1.50 on plain paper. Laminators are cheap - Walmart sells a laminator made by Scotch brand which comes with the pockets for less than $20. That is probably less than it would cost to take the pages to Staples and I ended up with my own laminator. I laminated the pieces together and then trimmed to the paper edge using this instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-cut-thin-sheet-metal-and-keep-it-flat/ January 29, 2018 Increased spacing on links for TowerAdapter and ExtraPencilHolder parts for ease of assembly. Part List D&D 5e DM Screen: There are many available. the one shown is this: https://drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/0B2EITM0tspCEc05veURKU0Q0a0U I used the top pdf version. The A4 version could be used IF you generate the files from the OpenSCAD source and comment out the current paper variable and uncomment the A4 version. You will need a print bed larger than the MK42 bed on the Original Prusa I3 MK2(s). Not this change applies to both the ScreenHolder_v5.scad file and the TowerScreenAdapter.scad file. Square Nuts: I bought these from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/M3x5-5mmx2mm-Plated-Square-Bronze-100pcs/dp/B018503K94/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521466372&sr=8-5&keywords=3mm+square+nuts The link seems to no longer take you to the correct page. Search M3 square nuts and get the M3x5.5 zinc plated nuts (cheap) or the A2 stainless steel DIN562. These are both thin and flat, most other square nuts are more rounded on the corners and are thicker. 3mm Socket Head Screws: available from numerous vendors. Various sizes, but 20mm will do for most if not all. 4 required per screen. White Board: common galvanized sheet metal bought at Home Depot and cut with a razor knife using this instructable: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-cut-thin-sheet-metal-and-keep-it-flat/ Painted with White Epoxy Appliance Paint (Rattle Can from Home Depot). This makes for a magnetic board that should work well with dry erase markers. I painted both sides, so i can reverse it if needed.