DIY Upflow Algae Scubber

thingiverse

DIY Upflow Algae Scrubber. Designed for a 32 Biopcube with an Intank media box. (220mm x 130mm x 40mm) Supplies: Airline tubing Superglue Silver HVAC Tape: https://www.lowes.com/pd/3M-1-88-in-W-x-150-ft-L-HVAC-Tape/4009603 Aluminum Channel: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Steelworks-3-4-in-W-x-8-ft-L-Mill-Finished-Aluminum-Weldable-Trim-Channel/3058185 Need to cut 3 pieces 5 1/4” long for heatsink) Black Silicone: https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Silicone-2-10-1-oz-Black-Silicone-Caulk/3084585 (Any silicon will do. I used black to match the container) Magnets (8 total): https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DC6PC-BLK Mesh: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07563327H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04 o00_s00?ie=UT F8&psc=1 Thermal Adhesive: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L7WFSJ2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details Steve's LEDS 2’ of 22 guage wire: https://www.stevesleds.com/22-Gauge-Driver-Power-wire_p_167.html 1 x Luxon ES Royal Blue LED: https://www.stevesleds.com/Luxeon-ES-ROYAL-BLUE-3-Watt-LEDs_p_234.html 4 x Luxon ES Deep Red LEDs: https://www.stevesleds.com/Luxeon-ES-Deep-Red_p_351.html LED Driver w/ cord: https://www.stevesleds.com/2-4X-3W-or-1X-10W-12W-LED-driver_p_253.html (Actual driver is in a casing and looks differently than pic) Print the Scrubber, Light, Top and Bottom mesh clips. MESH Side: Using sandpaper, scuff both sides of the mesh so it’s rough. Attach mesh to first clip and insert it into the scrubber. Insert the second clip into the scrubber. Cut the mesh so it fits inside the scrubber and has enough room to insert it into the second clip. Once you have the correct fit, use superglue to permanently attach the mesh to the clips. Insert the mesh into the slots in the scrubber. Insert the airline into the hole at the button of the scrubber and run the airline up the guide on the side of the scrubber. Add silicone around the tube/tube entrance. Once dry, connect an airline to a pump and place under water to check for air leaks on the outside of the scrubber. If any air is leaking, use silicone to seal it. Air leaks on the inside of the scrubber won’t hurt anything. Attach the 4 magnets in the holes on each corner. LED side: Cover the inside chamber of the Light side with the HVAC tape. This is not only reflective but gives the superglue something to adhere to. Using superglue, attach the aluminum heatsink (grooves on the bottom) to the back-inside of the container. Set the driver in the bottom (see finished pic). Do not glue the driver yet. Once the heatsinks have dried, using the thermal glue, attach the LEDS to them. Be careful not to move the LEDS during the next step. Solder the driver to the LEDs in a series. The positive from the driver goes to the positive on the first LED. The negative from that LED goes to the positive on the next LED. Repeat for each LED. On the fifth LED, solder the negative wire from the driver to the negative on the last LED. Run the power cable from the driver through one the holes in the bottom. Using silicone, attach the driver to the bottom of the container and arrange the LED wires. Solder/attach the power cables from the driver to the power cord. I recommend shrink wrap. Plug the cord in temporarily to make sure all LEDs are lit. Attach the 4 magnets in the holes on each corner. Be sure to match the polarity of the magnet with the corresponding magnet on the scrubber. That’s it. Place the mesh side in the aquarium/sump and attach the airline. Place the LED side on the other side of the glass. They should seal together via the magnets. Plug the cord in and you should have a working scrubber. You should plug the light into a timer, usually 18 hours/day is recommended. The scrubber should have rapid bubbles coming out of each hole and follow the mesh to the top. If the scrubber bubbles are too loud, you can lift the scrubber up so the air holes on top are above the water.