DIY SLA / DLP Printer Termin8tor

thingiverse

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubN1TeuaJQg&list=PLMDSLeB1XmHGC30FFVFAGmgUnaJl57ICp This is a complete build for the DIY SLA/DLP Termin8tor Resin Printer with 200x160x400mm build volume. Designed using Open Builds V-slot rail system, it's a Daylight Resin printer that uses no UV resins but can easily switch to a UV setup by swapping out the LCD and backlights. The iPad 4 screen is quite large, allowing for various smaller or differently shaped screens since it sits on top of an acrylic window. Unutilized portions will be blocked with light-absorbing materials. Total cost is around $1K. A 300x300mm FDM printer is required for certain build parts. Check individual components in the group below for more part-specific details. Build Group with full BOM and Marlin Sketch for GT2560: https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/termin8tor-sla-dlp-resin-printer UPDATE 9/19/19: The current printer in the videos had issues with hot and cold zones after running 1.5 hours or longer. Although not immediately apparent, the unevenly hot air under the LCD platform and the much cooler air above caused parts to stick. As the print progressed and resin level dropped, the part would rise completely out of the resin, hit by colder air that caused an adverse reaction, causing it to lower back into the hot resin. As it rose up for the next layer, it stuck to the FEP film, making audible popping sounds that worsened as the temperature differential between the lower and upper compartments grew greater. This led to smaller prints tearing apart from excess peeling forces. To solve this problem, an extra High-Pressure 80mm fan replaced the back case fan, and a complete duct system was created that efficiently transferred hotter air below the platform to the space above. This resolved part sticking issues as the air above the resin became much warmer, while below it cooled down. A Delta FFB0812EHE (80mm high-pressure) fan is required. You may need to lower the mounting point of the main Z stepper motor by 50mm or less from the base. There's a slot in the back of the duct to help with this adjustment. Print the ducts with two 0.7mm perimeters for light sturdy parts. On the duct arms, use a filament with a filler such as carbon fiber or wood or any other filled material. The geometry of the arms is complex and prone to warping as it progresses to the sloping upper part. A really dialed-in filament profile with perfect retraction and slightly under-extruding will help minimize warp.