DIY Ski Binding Drill Jig
prusaprinters
<p><strong>History</strong></p><p>2022_11_21 - Added more standard template files. Added parameterized files for templates with multiple hole sets and standard templates for easy drill size modification. </p><p>2022_10_22 - Original Release. </p><p> </p><p><strong>Description</strong></p><p>This is for those who prefer to mount their own ski bindings but want something better than paper templates; this is a nice middle ground between printouts and a proper drill jig.</p><p>The basic system uses 2020 t-slot profiles with a centering clamp at each end to grip the ski. Riding on these are sliders that fit a toe and heel drill template and a center plate between them. The sliders can be used to lock the fore/aft position of each template but allow some vertical float to accommodate for the ski shape. </p><p>I've tried to keep the design inexpensive. Total cost should be around 5-15USD plus the aluminum extrusion which could be 20-30USD. A detailed parts list is included below. </p><p>I've included a bunch of templates based on paper template measurements, and the sources are noted for each. However, please double check measurements and/or perform a test mount before drilling. </p><p>Binding hole patterns and drill size combinations are endless -<strong> Use the parameterized OpenSCAD file to create or modify a template for any binding</strong> (use dimensions from paper drill templates available, or measure the binding yourself).</p><p>Unless otherwise noted, my template holes are size for a brass tube to use as a drill bushing. I have a relief in the cylindrical hole to allow for the z-seam so it doesn’t interfere with a good fit for the bushing. </p><p>This jig works well for me, but obviously I can't take any responsibility if you screw up a brand new pair of skis. </p><h5>Printed Parts list</h5><p>The jig will take ~500g PLA and ~30hrs print time with a 0.6mm nozzle. The largest parts require a print bed that can fit 8"/205mm width. Templates vary in size, but are usually around 60-100g filament and 6-8 hrs to print. </p><p>For most parts, I suggest 2+ walls, 3+ top and bottom layers, and 30+% infill assuming 0.6mm nozzle and 0.3mm layer height. </p><figure class="table"><table><thead><tr><th style="height:15.0pt;width:200px;"><strong>Item</strong></th><th style="height:15.0pt;width:60px;"><strong>Qty</strong></th><th style="height:15.0pt;width:526pt;"><strong>Notes</strong></th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;width:200px;">Housing - Top</td><td style="height:15.0pt;text-align:right;width:60px;">2x</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">Needs supports from buildplate only</td></tr><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;width:200px;">Housing - Bottom</td><td style="height:15.0pt;text-align:right;width:60px;">2x</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">Needs supports from buildplate only</td></tr><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;width:200px;">Side clamp</td><td style="height:15.0pt;text-align:right;width:60px;">4x</td><td style="height:15.0pt;"> </td></tr><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;width:200px;">Handle</td><td style="height:15.0pt;text-align:right;width:60px;">2x</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">Needs supports from buildplate only</td></tr><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;width:200px;">Gear</td><td style="height:15.0pt;text-align:right;width:60px;">2x</td><td style="height:15.0pt;"> </td></tr><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;width:200px;">Sliders</td><td style="height:15.0pt;text-align:right;width:60px;">6x</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">Print as if T-slot was oriented vertically with open nut hole up. Will still need normal supports</td></tr><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;width:200px;">M5 Knob</td><td style="height:15.0pt;text-align:right;width:60px;">8x</td><td style="height:15.0pt;"> </td></tr><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;width:200px;">Mount Center</td><td style="height:15.0pt;text-align:right;width:60px;">1x</td><td style="height:15.0pt;"> </td></tr><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;width:200px;">Grip Flexible</td><td style="height:15.0pt;text-align:right;width:60px;">4x</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">Print out of TPU, 2 walls, 2 top/bot layers, no infill.</td></tr><tr><td>Templates</td><td style="width:60px;"> </td><td>as required, needs buildplate supports for c-bore nuts</td></tr><tr><td>Template stops</td><td style="width:60px;"> </td><td>as required</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><h4> </h4><h5>Fasteners and other hardware</h5><p>Hardware required should all be available at a hardware store, apart from the T-nuts maybe. I' have tried to keep everything M5 except the toe and heel stops which are too small for M5 screws.</p><figure class="table"><table><thead><tr><th style="height:15.0pt;width:119pt;"><strong>Item</strong></th><th style="height:15.0pt;width:140pt;"><strong>Size</strong></th><th style="width:60px;"><strong>Qty </strong></th><th style="height:15.0pt;width:526pt;"><strong>Notes</strong></th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;">BHSCS</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">M5x12mm</td><td style="text-align:right;width:60px;">4*</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">Holds upper and lower centering clamp housing together</td></tr><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;">BHSCS</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">M5x8mm</td><td style="text-align:right;width:60px;">4</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">Attaches assembled housing to v-slot with t-nuts</td></tr><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;">BHSCS</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">M5x30mm</td><td style="text-align:right;width:60px;">2</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">attaches jig gear to handle</td></tr><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;">HCS</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">m5x45mm</td><td style="text-align:right;width:60px;">2</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">friction clamp/lock for housing. 40mm length might also works I think.</td></tr><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;">HCS</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">m5x14mm</td><td style="text-align:right;width:60px;">6</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">slider clamp knobs, attach to t-nuts</td></tr><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;">hex nut</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">m5</td><td style="text-align:right;width:60px;">6*</td><td style="height:15.0pt;"> </td></tr><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;">t-nut</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">m5</td><td style="text-align:right;width:60px;">10+</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">small serrated style like <a href="https://a.co/d/4e5DEEJ">this </a>preferred, not sure if other style will work in all places</td></tr><tr><td>Machine screw</td><td>M4x20mm</td><td style="width:60px;"> </td><td>as required, use for heel and toe stops</td></tr><tr><td>hex nut</td><td>m4</td><td style="width:60px;"> </td><td>as required, use for heel and toe stops</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><p>*Tech toe pin springs require two additional M5x12 BHSCS and two M5 hex nuts. </p><p><i>BHSCS=Button head socket cap screw</i></p><p><i>HCS=Hex cap screw</i></p><p> </p><p>The aluminum extrusion will probably have to be ordered. The brass tube is needed for drill sleeves if desired. </p><figure class="table"><table><thead><tr><th style="height:15.0pt;width:119pt;"><strong>Item</strong></th><th style="height:15.0pt;width:140pt;"><strong>Size</strong></th><th style="height:15.0pt;width:60px;"><strong>Qty</strong></th><th style="height:15.0pt;width:526pt;"><strong>Notes</strong></th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;">Aluminum extrusion</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">2020 V-slot, 700mm</td><td style="height:15.0pt;text-align:right;width:60px;">2</td><td style="height:15.0pt;">There are different variations of t-slot; not all will work. V-slot or something similar to <a href="https://a.co/d/4VzKwo9">this</a> (which is actually stepped) will work. </td></tr><tr><td style="height:15.0pt;">Drill bushings</td><td style="height:15.0pt;"><a href="https://a.co/d/33RGukT">brass tube k&S 8134</a></td><td style="height:15.0pt;width:60px;"> </td><td style="height:15.0pt;">drill bushing material. If using, cut to ¾" [19mm] length per insert</td></tr></tbody></table></figure><p> </p><h5> </h5><h5>Mounting procedure</h5><ul><li>Attach jig to ski roughly centered lengthwise over mount position<ul><li>Tighten handles on each housing to center jig</li><li>While applying some pressure to the handle tighten smaller knob to lock each end into place</li><li>(optionally) Attach extra clamps to secure ends to skis to ensure the jig doesn't move</li></ul></li><li>Set center slider on the center mark of the ski or wherever you intend to center the mount. <ul><li>tighten slider knob to lock into position</li></ul></li><li>Set toe and heel templates<ul><li>Align boot center mark with the center slider</li><li>Use template heel stop, toe stop, or toe pin springs to position templates relative to boot and mount center.</li><li>tighten slider knobs to lock each into position</li></ul></li><li>Use templates to punch and/or drill </li><li>For second ski, use tape measure from tail to make sure jig is positioned identically and then only use ski center mark to verify position.</li><li>Attach bindings and double check to the boot before glueing</li></ul><p><a href="https://imgur.com/9oj33tR">Here</a> is a sped-up video of me doing a mount using an early version of the jig. </p><p> </p><h5>Templates</h5><p>As noted above, my templates are sized for a brass sleeve to use as a drill insert. I use 11/32" x 0.014" wall tube which works great with an 8mm stepped bit. Cut to ¾" length.</p><figure class="image image-style-align-center image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/300217/rich_content/310fbd83-f0cd-4b49-87e8-75cd9d7ffd00/img_3327.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22d9ef46b7-e372-4281-831e-07fc74e6822f%22%2C%22w%22%3A3024%2C%22h%22%3A4032%7D"></figure><p>If installing sleeve inserts, a few drops of super glue is sufficient to bond to plastic. </p><p> </p><p> </p><p>The small notch in the hole is for Z-seam clearance. This is important to get a smooth cylindrical surface for drill guidance or for bushing fit. Make sure and set Z-seam position to be at the sharpest corner. </p><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/300217/rich_content/f7e3d938-7dbf-47d6-95bf-81dc860b6cc8/2022-10-22-14_57_54-ce3pro_atk-heel-patterns-ultimaker-cura.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%22e1a78f8a-757d-4dd7-a88e-ef7e2a186eb4%22%2C%22w%22%3A1146%2C%22h%22%3A684%7D"></figure><p> </p><p>You may have to fine tune template arm width a little bit to get a nice snug fit between the rails. For me, I get variation of around ±.5mm with different materials mostly just based on how much they shrink. </p><p> </p><h5>OpenSCAD file modification</h5><p>To modify the drill template file, first get <a href="https://openscad.org/">OpenSCAD</a>. </p><p>The template can be used for a toe or heel pattern, and parameters are commented to hopefully be easy to understand. I have grouped most of the parameters that need to be modified at the beginning in the “Primary Parameters” section. If you haven't used SCAD before, make sure to not modify quotes or semicolons when changing parameters.</p><p>There are 3 SCAD files, use them as follows:</p><p><strong>Template_Multiple_Patterns.scad</strong></p><p>Use this file to make templates with multiple hole sets. Existing patterns listed are turned on/off by the first variable (0=off, 1=on). Make sure to edit the label and platform dimensions as needed, and to select the appropriate config for toe stop/heel stop/or toe pins. It's best not to mix the two different toe feature types or heels with toes. </p><p>For example, here is a single temple with heel patterns for a kingpin and shift. </p><figure class="image image_resized" style="width:53.44%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/300217/rich_content/baa6d86a-c3f9-4912-85a6-4f38eec27a45/image.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%2210767dd2-71eb-4170-8c4c-2d738b9a7f46%22%2C%22w%22%3A748%2C%22h%22%3A532%7D"></figure><p> </p><p><strong>Template_Library.scad</strong></p><p>Use this file to make or modify an existing template. This is the easiest way to modify drill size to you liking for a standard template, or use to tweak the width of the arms for a tight fit if needed. </p><p>Uncomment a specific pattern, and then modify any necessary parameters in the primary or secondary parameters section. </p><p> </p><p><strong>Template_modifiable.scad</strong></p><p>This is the most easily customizable template, but only works for 4 (5 with a center hole) patterns.</p><p>Read the comments in the file if you intend to use this, but here is a quick overview:</p><figure class="image"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/300217/rich_content/fff4050f-8eb5-41f6-bc88-f22049577792/scad-template-quick-overview.png#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%221f8ca40b-bd74-40cc-afa7-1758f4b7ccce%22%2C%22w%22%3A1915%2C%22h%22%3A1073%7D"></figure><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><h5>Future to-do list:</h5><ul><li>Add Assembly instructions</li></ul><h5> </h5><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p>
With this file you will be able to print DIY Ski Binding Drill Jig with your 3D printer. Click on the button and save the file on your computer to work, edit or customize your design. You can also find more 3D designs for printers on DIY Ski Binding Drill Jig.