DIY 3D-Printer (Intricator)

grabcad

DIY 3D-printer:Features:- Print volume: 400x400x400mm- CoreXY- Custom water cooled heatsink + Zesty nimble- All axis linear railsInfo:The design does not include endstops (microswitch) because on x- and y-axis you can use sensorless homing with certain control boards and on z-axis endstop is easier make with parts that you can source from a local hardware shop. Extruder uses water cooling instead of a simple fan because water cooling is much more reliable if enclosure is used around the printer. The printer frame makes it possible to attach side plates directly to the sides of the printer (except back). The green parts (in render pictures) are meant to be printed on a 3D-printer from ABS or Nylon. ABS does not give in in high temperatures or start to deform overtime when pressure is applied (for example from a screw). Zesty nimble is one of the lightest "direct/remote" extruders and for that reason it is used. Hotend is E3Ds basic heatblock and heatbreak is Kraken heatbreak. The heated bed is made of machined 8mm aluminum plate and borosilicate glass, which dimensions are the same as Filafarm's heated beds. I use that type of heated bed on my printer, which is similar to this printed but not the same. In my printer the bed does not need to be leveled except for once, but it needs to be set to correct height before printing because the frame can warmup and change the distance between bed and the nozzle.Z-axis uses SFU1605 ball screw, which may not hold the weight of the bed up with just a stepper motor. That's why a gearbox is used in this design.I recommend to use Duet controller boards (such as Duet 2 wifi or Duet Maestro) as they are easy to use and have lots of features.