Direct Drive Conversion

thingiverse

This is a direct drive conversion that I did to my CR-10S Pro, but should work on any CR-10 or Ender-3. It is designed to fit this replacement Extruder Kit: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08YYBP2HT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I am also running a Micro Swiss Hotend: https://smile.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-Creality-Printers-TronXY/dp/B0789V2D7C/ref=sr_1_4?crid=26F054UC1TK3M&keywords=micro+swiss+hotend&qid=1640896662&s=industrial&sprefix=micro+swiss+hotend%2Cindustrial%2C100&sr=1-4 I used the Hero-Me designs (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4460970) by mediaman as a base but has been modified to fit the replacement extruder. The fan duct is his design. The hotend and tube are installed on the extruder plate, then Part 1 is held up to the plate and part 2 is pushed into place and an M3 bolt installed. Then you can install an M3 bolt through the hole in the extruder plate that goes down into Part 1. The hole in the extruder plate is fairly oversized, i used one of the bourdon tube locking tabs as a spacer to fill the opening and hold Part 1 tight against the plate.(the Red plastic in last picture). Once Parts 1 & 2 are installed, the BL Touch spacer and fans/duct are installed. In total this uses 8 M3 bolts and 1 M3 washer. I used this kit: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4MG7TC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The fan duct is the only part that needed supports, but you may be able to print it without supports depending on the printer. It is currently designed to have the screws directly in the material, so don't overtighten and strip your threads. I also recommend starting the bolt holes by partially threading them with a M3 thread tap. I made mine on an SLA printer with resin because I needed the parts for my FDM printer, but these parts will work just fine if made out of filament as well and will thread easier than the resin did.