
DigiGurdy
thingiverse
This is a redesign of XenonJohn's Digigurdy. It's based on current versions from his Hackaday Project Site, not this one here on thingiverse. https://hackaday.io/project/165251-the-digi-gurdy My design replaces all non-electric components with 3D printed parts. I had no idea how to cut aluminium profiles nice and without hurting myself, so that's the reason I started with a full printed version. If everything works well, a spool of filament is enough to print everything, unless you want different colors, which makes it a bit cheaper, as with profiles and laser-cut parts. The downside of this is you need a big printer. What you don't need from the original design: Aluminium Small Curved Corner Profile Alloy box section tube 12x8 Lasercut acryl/wood plates if you use printed ones. Oring, if you print yours with TPU. Flange Coupling, I would recommend using one; I ordered it but it never got delivered, therefore designed my crank for use without. Fishing Reel handle. What you will need with this design in addition to the other items: A big printer (~ 400mm length), as already mentioned. For the crank: 5mm bearings (11mm outside diameter) x2 for the crank knob A 5mm screw long enough to connect knob and crank 2 end nuts, 2 security nuts A USB adapter if you print endcap_USB. I used this one: https://secure.reichelt.at/usb-adapter-ft-1-x-usb-2-0-b-buchse-1-x-usb-2-0-a-buchse-cliff-cp30207nm-p227651.html?&nbc=1 2 x screw 3mm to fixate the USB adapter A short USB cable micro - A to connect teensy and the USB adapter. 8 3mm screws at least 3cm long (can be longer) for the chassis.
With this file you will be able to print DigiGurdy with your 3D printer. Click on the button and save the file on your computer to work, edit or customize your design. You can also find more 3D designs for printers on DigiGurdy.