Dice Mold Bases

thingiverse

These supports are designed for standard size dice. The dice masters I used were purchased from The Blue Mimic in a standard size. You can easily edit the sizes of the supports if they aren't the right fit for your dice, but they should be close enough for most standard size dice. The "D20 L" file was created specifically to work with a 23mm D20. When it comes to mold making materials, I use Mold Star 20T from Smooth-On, but you can choose any material that will cure well against 3D printed parts. These dice mold supports are perfect for two-part squish style mold making with added vents. The bases are sized so that there is plenty of space between the dice if you're placing them all together in a mold. This makes it easy to manage your molds and create professional-looking results. I will provide detailed photos to help illustrate the instructions at a later date, but here's what I've found works best for me: drilling a sprue/vent support hole in the single face of the dice you want to use as the rough side. This is usually the only side that needs sanding and polishing after removing the dice from the molds. The supports have a slight indentation that will make the mold caps pop into place when putting them into the bottom molds. To fill the supports, I suggest using the sprue/vent hole since it's the least messy option, but you can also fill them and then add the cap on top if needed. This is helpful for making intricate designs or using inclusions. The supports have a slight indentation that will make the mold caps pop into place when putting them into the bottom molds. To attach the dice to the top of the support, I use double-sided tape but you can also use very thin clay. When using tape, be sure to remove the supports from the mold carefully so you don't move the dice master before casting the cap. You'll also need to cut the tape carefully when applying it to the support. To add an extra level of detail to your molds, I drill a hole in the rough face of the dice. Usually, I use the smallest number face so that if I do any designs with inclusions, the largest/most important face looks its best. The hole should be less than 2mm. Once you remove the support and before casting the mold cap, you can attach the 3D printed sprue/vent to the dice using clay or bluetack. One thing to keep in mind is that you'll need to apply a mold release agent after removing the mold support and before pouring the silicone cap. If you don't do this, you won't be able to separate the silicone layers from each other. I use Mann Mold Release 200 but I've also heard that petroleum jelly works well. If you want to edit the files yourself, I have them uploaded to TinkerCAD (you may need an account to access): https://www.tinkercad.com/things/gCJiz7fdn32-dice-mold-supports-shared