Dial Indicator Mount CR-10S5

thingiverse

This mount was designed specifically for the Triton 1" Dial Indicator with 0.001" Graduation Travel Lug Back White Face, part number 20025L. It can be found on Amazon at the following link: https://www.amazon.com/Triton-Indicator-0-001-Graduation-Travel/dp/B016R3GLB0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Triton+1%22+Dial+Indicator+0.001%22+Graduation+Travel+Lug+Back+White+Face&qid=1574000941&sr=8-1 Accurate support settings are crucial to successfully removing the supports from this print. Important: This mount requires a relief cut to be made in the metal fan housing box. This can be easily achieved with a grinder, and it will require material to be removed from the bottom, back left corner of the box to allow the mount access to the lower X axis wheel's screw. Also important: Perform an auto home function without the dial indicator in place. Raise the Z axis by 4mm or so, then move the X and Y axes with the "Move Axis By 1mm" function to set the dial mount squarely over the bed. Now you can insert the dial indicator into the mount. Make sure not to hang the indicator over the edge of the bed! Don't use the auto bed level function while the dial indicator is inserted, as it will travel over the edge and drop off, causing damage to the dial indicator, the printed mount, and even your printer. Recommended Use: Use the mount and linked dial indicator to zero in on the points directly over the bed level adjustment screws with each other. Then use the "Move Axis By 1mm" function to slowly move and plot elevation deviations directly on the glass bed with a dry erase marker. Apply metal tape to adjust pressure points acting on the glass until the bed is level. I achieved a level of +or- 2.5 thousandths of an inch using this method. It's essential to consider the support at the beds edges and how they may be flexing the glass. Also, consider the pressure created by the paper clips. PS: If you have inconsistent Z bar try inserting a wedge between the Z stepper and the metal mounting plate. (Seen in the photo rotated 90 counter clockwise for some reason) I found this mounting plate to be very flexible compared to its counterpart on the other Z rail, which was leading to dramatic inconsistencies in my Z height. A strong wedge has eliminated this issue for me. PPS: I now use a Z limit switch screw to adjust the nozzle height from the center of the bed only. I use the above mentioned process of zeroing the spots over the bed adjustment screws with each other to ensure the bed is level. Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2787143 Hopefully, someone else finds this as useful as I have!