Di3 LCD Angler with E-Stop and SD Slot

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Making reading easier, tilts the flat LCD faceplate of the Wanhao Duplicator i3 version 1 and its rebrands at 35 degrees. Adds a stop button without drilling that includes a small arm pushing a button covered by the faceplate. An optional slot for a Micro SD to SD adapter is available. Existing screws are reused, then attached to the base with one screw. Note: If you install your spool holder on the power supply box, use the Melzi highrise file. The screws are too long and will hit the board if you use the Melzi offset file. Thanks to Azza for the heads up. New set of files is available. Di3 LCD angler SD-no vents.stl does not include vents. Di3 LCD angler SD-left.stl moves the SD slot to the left side. Di3 LCD angler 2b.stl has no SD slot. Di3 LCD angler SD.stl includes an SD slot. Di3 LCD Angler with SD set.stl is a full SD set with circuit board offsets and stop button. Instructions: Printed at .25mm layer height in PLA with supports. I used S3D with fast honeycomb at 15% fill, three shells, and three layers. All supports were removed except for the small ones on the upper tab and the supports for the SD slot and recessed screw hole. Total print time was about four hours. The faceplate mounting side should be down on the bed. Make sure to clean out the supports well under the tabs. Remove the front six LCD faceplate screws. Remove the LCD connector. Gently wiggle the face plate with the attached LCD over the stop button lever first, then angle it and rest it on. Do not tighten too much, just a bit of adjustment is needed. Replace all the screws in the faceplate except for the bottom one. Slowly tighten the screws as you tap the angler. It may help to ream them out a bit with a 2.5mm hex wrench. Reattach the cable and put the new assembly over the opening, then slide it down. Check the bottom hole alignment and screw in the remaining screw. For the SD setup, proceed at your own risk. Results may vary. You need a MicroSD to SD adapter. Mine had a case around the SD side, which I was able to easily remove. You also need a small strip of heavy-duty double-sided tape. If you mount the spool holder on the power supply box, print two Melzi highrise parts. If you use the mounting holes for the spool holder on top of the printer, print two Melzi offsets. Unplug the power cord and remove the top of the case with the base on one side and the top on the other. Move the four screws and nylon washers that mount the circuit board. Insert the Micro SD extension and drop it into the printed highrises or the offsets over the raised screw bosses if using the offset ones. Put the circuit board over the offsets, making sure to hook it under the offset ends. Replace the four screws and nylon washers and tighten on the highrise version. Replace the four screws and use nylon washers on the top two, then tighten. Snap in the circuit board, making sure it hooks into the pins at the bottom, then snap it down. Double-check that the MicroSD extension is properly seated and tape if necessary. Make sure the SD slot is cleared of support material and do a test fit of the SD card holder. See above if you haven't attached the faceplate. If a good fit: Add a slim strip of double-sided tape to the back of the LCD circuit board (see pics). Remove the protective backing of the tape, insert the SD reader angling it in, check to see that it is fully seated, and then press down adhering to the tape.