DaVinci 1.0 Extruder Heatsink Cooling Shroud

thingiverse

There have been other fan shrouds created, but I wanted one that focuses most of the airflow directly onto the heatsink while keeping disturbances to a minimum in the nozzle/heater block area. Drawing air straight over a hot, freshly printed ABS layer is a surefire recipe for warping and delamination! This shroud utilizes the stock heatsink, fitting snugly while still providing clearance for the heating cartridge and thermistor wires. It clears the carriage during installation, but it's crucial to route the heater cartridge wires carefully against the chamfered corner of the shroud as shown in the accompanying photos. Additionally, consider applying Kapton or metal tape to areas around the extruder metal housing where air leaks are evident. UPDATE: New images have been added to display cutouts for proper thermistor wire routing and reveal air leak locations that should be sealed! PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY! Instructions READ THIS PARAGRAPH FIRST IF YOU DON'T COMPLETELY UNDERSTAND ALL OF THE DIRECTIONS! After experimenting with fan airflow in both directions, it's become unmistakable that the fan MUST be mounted to draw air upwards through the shroud – NOT blowing air into it. When the fan blows air in, there is excessive airflow surrounding the hotend and part, causing potential issues getting the hotend up to temperature. Furthermore, it may exacerbate warpage. To further minimize airflow, I've applied a piece of Kapton tape over the gap between the duct's bottom edge on the shroud and the carriage – strongly advising you do this as well. It significantly improves heat transfer with the addition of thermal heatsink compound, greatly improving the potential for printing PLA. I utilized DOW 340 Silicone heatsink compound but if you have Arctic Silver available, that will work perfectly! I sliced this design using Slic3r and set the support material overhang threshold to 74 degrees, leaving uppermost duct layers unsupported, though it should still bridge well. A 3mm brim was also applied around the part. Notice the small cutouts with radiused edges I've made on the right side for thermistor wire routing. To size the fan mounting holes correctly, I aimed to use the original screws that would self-thread into ABS with ease.