D-Link Omna 180 Replacement Body

thingiverse

After buying an Omna 180 about two years ago, I have finally made this solution to one of it's biggest problems - heat dissipation. The original body is some sort of metal, but there is little to no ventilation anywhere on the case. Once I figured out how to take apart the camera, I measured and modeled this body to (hopefully) alleviate the issue. I have included three different models, depending on the use case. If you have the same problem I do, use the one with perforation. If you don't have that problem, but wish to spice up your camera, use the pre-perforation model. If you just want a plain version, use the no-perforation model. (Yes, I know I misspelled it in the model name. Oh well, we all goof sometimes...) When printing: Infill doesn't matter, as long as it isn't below 10% Supports should NOT be needed, but use your discretion. A raft is suggested to keep the body adhered to the bed while printing This can be printed at any layer height, although I personally did 0.20 mm so it would go faster... I plan to update this summary with instructions on how to take apart the camera itself. For now, the best I can do is a "simple" explanation. WARNING! This absolutely violates the warranty and can be very technical. Be very cautious through this process so as to not completely destroy the plastic bits. Everything can be put back together if done properly, please take your time (Although, if you mess up, a little super glue never hurt anyone... mostly). On the base section of the camera, use a utility knife to peel away the rubber from the front and back of the camera to reveal 3 screws (2 on one side, 1 on the other, be careful so as to not destroy the rubber, too). Remove these screws and remove the metal base. On the top plastic "cap", (while the camera is facing you) you can wedge a strong/metal spudger or wedge to unhook the clips holding the cap to the camera housing on the left and right side. You should now be able to see two screws that secure the camera housing to the body. Remove these screws and carefully lift the camera casing out of the body, there is a ribbon cable that will need to be detached from the main "motherboard". Now shift back to the base and remove the bottom screws that align with the two metal pillars that ride from the top to the bottom of the body. You should now be able to slide the "motherboard" as well as the plastic base out of the body... And now you can replace the body with what you 3D printed! NOTE: As a heads up, there is a support for the main motherboard on the back of the body (Those two flat columns that jut out of the sides). You may need to cut these off on the bottom of the body, as they will get in the way when you replace it. I intended to update the model, but this is a very minor issue compared to some of the other things I ran into when 3D modeling this, so I'm going to move on for now.