Customiser: Stanley tray box divider platelet

thingiverse

Stanley tray boxes come with no essential separator plates. However, these can be purchased as extras when needed. When none are available, cutouts from strong cardboard will usually do. But I discovered the utility of 3D-printed versions for testing printer and slicer settings, especially in combination with new filament material, when I finally reached the point of acute trolley coin saturation - those I printed for quick testing beforehand. I also dislike printing objects that have no further use. As testing happens sporadically, so does requiring another separator platelet, which balances production and need very well. The object itself is a straightforward rectangle made of plastic. It has rounded corners, a stiffening frame, prints quickly without bridging or support needed. Presets give 51x30mm platelets, which suits 6(wide)x5(high) tray boxes perfectly. You can inscribe them using a liquid chalk pen, possibly a CD marker works too. This isn't exactly the next revolution in 3D printing, but keeps my trashcan from filling up too quickly. Visually appealing or not, platelets result from printing these when changing filament, with the goal of emptying the filament channel, due to how I change filament: I cut old filament just above the feeder, then push new filament in, letting it follow the last few centimeters of old filament which will still be getting extruded. As I'm also collecting short ends of filament that broke off or were left over, I plan for a handful of artistic platelets involving multiple color changes. Printer Settings: Printer Brand: RepRap Printer: Prusa i3 Pro cheap China clone Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: No Resolution: Any. Last print was 0.4mm first layer with 0.3mm other layers and a 0.4mm nozzle. Infill: None, but settings were fill-density=12, fill-pattern=rectilinear Notes: Using Slic3r 1.2.9, complete settings were --fill-density=12 --nozzle-diameter=0.40 --travel-speed=100 --retract-length=2 --perimeters=3 --bed-temperature=90 --first-layer-bed-temperature=90 --temperature=200 --first-layer-extrusion-width=250% --end-gcode=/misc/ssd/big/3d-print/gcode.end --first-layer-height=0.4 --solid-fill-pattern=rectilinear --layer-height=0.3 --fill-pattern=rectilinear --scale=1 --filament-diameter=1.73 --first-layer-speed=10 --skirts=1 --first-layer-temperature=220 Bed temperature is 15C off, so a setting of 90 corresponds to real 75C. First layer done pretty hot for more fluid PLA adhering well to blank glass tile. That's also the reason for the really fat first layer extrusion width resulting in some sort of micro raft. Options weren't given specifically for this object but carried together from several sources: Defaults, overwritten by nozzle specific settings, superceded by filament specific settings and finally by object specific settings - of which aren't any in this case. Above options list merely reflects the outcome. How I Designed This: Step 1: Open editor, start editing .scad file, save once Step 2: Launch OpenSCAD, open .scad file, which gets rendered for preview. Step 3: Modify source using editor. Every time source is saved, OpenSCAD re-renders preview automatically. Which I appreciate a lot because I don't like its internal editor.