Creality Ender 5 Part Cooling Fan Duct
thingiverse
Using CarstenD's 'Creality Ender 3 part cooling fan duct' as inspiration (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3091300), I have designed a Part Cooling Fan Duct for the Ender 5. I prefer this design of duct as when it comes to printing ABS, it is far better. With a standard or small fan duct, the hotend cooling fan blows air down towards to nozzle due to the bottom of the cooling fan shroud being open. With the duct I have designed, it forces more air past the hotend keeping the area around it cooler, and stops ABS prints from warping as badly due to stray air cooling the print. It uses plaetti's Airflow Cooling Duct (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3376186/files), as it fits and clips on better then CarstenD's and Filboyt's Ender 3 Vent Ring (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2912394), as I think it has been the best cooling duct I've used. The Airflow Cooling Duct is a great design but I found it tends to just blow air past the nozzle tip rather then at it. So I decided to use ideas from all 3 design to end up with this. It just clips onto the bottom of the fan housing and is retained by the part cooling fan duct screws. https://youtu.be/YgqGTywITV4 -------------------------------------------- UPDATE V1.4 ------------------------------------------------- Thanks for all the feedback guys, here is an updated model! > Some people mentioned it was too difficult to print with certain materials as it wouldn't handle the overhangs. The new update has a split version which can be printed in 2 separate pieces with full supports that can be removed. You can either glue it together which is what I did or if you like, put it in your cad program and add some locators so it just presses together. I have designed the 2 halves so that each corner has a solid portion that a stud/hole can be placed so it can be assembled without using glue. I didn't use pins and holes as my printer is not accurate enough for it. > Some people complained the airflow was no good. Keep in mind I only meshed 2 popular designs together and my results were good. The idea is for the vent ring to be restrictive, the same way the A/C ducting is in your local Costco or Walmart. You have a massive blower fan forcing air down a narrowing tube. Restriction = +Pressure. However, upon deconstructing the ring I used on my design, I found that the air output holes varied in size. They ranged from 1 mm to 2.5 mm with some also being parallelograms. The design was not symmetrical. So with this new update I have completely redesigned my own duct ring. Using air channels (refer to pic) that point directly to the tip of the nozzle. (-0.5 up nozzle to 2 mm below nozzle). My previous idea was to provide a 'cushion' of air that blew at the bed and curved up the nozzle giving a bubble of moving air around the tip, however when you tried printing narrow walls more then 5mm high the performance was lost as there is no bed for the air to reflect off of. My bad. This new design does not rely on the bed. > The ring inner is now smaller. 18mm instead of 20mm. Some people mentioned that their designs melted or warped due to hotend proximity. I have also spaced the ring slightly further from the hotend for you but I must say, I have only been printing PLA for the past 2 months with a total of 27 hours print time, using this duct design printed in PLA and I have not experienced any warping or melting. Perhaps you are setting your bed or nozzle temp too high (60/200C) or are using a non stock hotend/no silicone cup? I'm yet to use this design in summer so that could be it but you should have an external fan / A/C blowing towards the printer in summer, otherwise, fire. Keep your chips below 60C. > The nozzle is now perfectly in the centre of the ring. 1 person mentioned it was slightly out. Mine was too, but now I have moved the ring 1.4mm away from the fan inlet. Some peoples may have already been in the centre, there's not much I can do about it, a lot of it comes down to the thin steel used to mount the hotend and the play in the mounting screw holes. Undoing your screws and moving it or straightening your hotend cage may be all you need to get the nozzle in the centre. Happy printing.
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