Creality Ender-3 Pro Linear bearing Z-Axis conversion

thingiverse

This is an extremely simple Z-Axis conversion for the Creality Ender-3 Pro (and possibly the Ender-3 - let me know). Total cost was $27.50. The roller bearing system on these machines is widely recognized to create a significant amount of play in the X-Axis chassis and is often replaced with linear rails. After conducting extensive research, I was unable to find a commercial replacement that fit within my budget or an open-source solution that met my requirements. This is a solution I came up with that creates a rock-solid X-Axis chassis using the existing holes/bolts provided with the printer. I hope it works for you and please credit me if you share or link to it. All parts have a .2mm tolerance; however, I have added an additional slider file "Linear Z Axis - Slider - No Tolerance" with no tolerance on the linear bearing holes. This may be beneficial to anyone with a well-tuned printer. You will need to purchase: 8mm SS linear bearing rod (Length Min - 380mm Max - 400mm) 2x Linear bearings (R15mm x L24mm) Possibly 2x M5x35mm bolts (I used the existing 45mm bolts provided but had to use the bolt to extend the tap on the existing threaded hole by about 5mm) Not ideal, but it was easy to do. The links below are the products I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q82Z4Q5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXHHAAB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Fitting Guide: Step 1 Insert 2X 16mm bolts, then press the 8mm rod into the "Linear Z Axis - Bottom Bracket" Press 2x linear bearings into the holes in "Linear Z Axis - Slider" Test that the 8mm Rod slides through the 8mm hole in "Linear Z Axis - Top Bracket" Step 2 Remove the 2 outer rollers from the right-hand side of the X-Axis chassis. You need to keep the nuts, bolts, and spacers, as you will need these to fit the "Linear Z Axis - Slider" later on. Step 3 - Linear Z Axis - Bottom Bracket Use 2x T-nuts provided with your printer to fit the "Linear Z Axis - Bottom Bracket" & 8mm rod to the outside edge of the right-hand Z-axis extrusion. Slide it down towards the bottom of the extrusion to be adjusted and tightened later on. This should fit snugly next to the power supply. Step 4 - Linear Z Axis - Slider Slide the "Linear Z Axis - Slider" onto the 8mm rod and loosely attach to the X-Axis chassis via the existing roller holes and bolts you removed earlier. Step 5 - Linear Z Axis - Top Bracket Remove the right-hand bolts holding the top extrusion bar in place. Slide the 8mm rod into the hole provided in the "Linear Z Axis - Top Bracket", then use 2x M5x45mm bolts provided with the printer (or 2x 35mm as suggested earlier) to fit the "Linear Z Axis - Top Bracket" back through the existing holes. Step 6 Manually move the Z-Axis to the home position and tighten the "Linear Z Axis - Bottom Bracket" into place 5mm below the "Linear Z Axis - Slider". Ensure the X-Axis chassis is level by measuring or using 2 matching length props before tightening the "Linear Z Axis - Slider" in place. Use 1x M4x16mm bolt to clamp the 8mm rod in the "Linear Z Axis - Top Bracket" Done! Note: Ensure that all the bolts holding the extrusion to the end plates on the X-Axis chassis are tight. I had lots of movement until I tightened these. If this design has helped fix your machine and saved you a few dollars at the same time, then please consider donating what you feel is fair to https://paypal.me/kitkaye Every little helps!