Creality CR10s V2 Standalone all in one unit conversion

Creality CR10s V2 Standalone all in one unit conversion

thingiverse

UPDATED... I've just uploaded two new STL files: a New updated mainboard base and a New LCD screen. The New updated mainboard base allows cables to come out at the back rather than the side. It has one hole for the bed plug and another for both the extruder and side connector cable. Make sure you feed the big plugs through first, and don't forget to put your grommet in place. The other STL file is a new LCD screen with a little slot for a zip tie to attach it to the upright. I've also released a firmware (Marlin 2.0.6) to go with this mod. You can grab that from www.pretendprusa.co.uk. Conversion Kit To get rid of the external control and PSU, you'll need: * LCD Mount: 2 off M4x10 (cap head or dome) set screws, 2 off M4 T-Nuts * PSU Mount: 2 off M3x10 (dome) set screws for the power connector, 2 off M3 Nyloc nuts for the power connector, 2 off M4x30 (cap head) for PSU mount, 2 off M4 T-Nuts, 220mm twin 24v power cable * PSU Bracket: 2 off M4x10 screw, 2 off M4 T-Nuts * Mainboard Case: 4 off M4x30 (cap head) for Case mount, 4 off M4 T-Nuts, 5 off M3x30 (cap head) for lid * Feet extenders: You might get away with using the supplied ones, but I used M5x30 Screws Used from Original Parts: * Mainboard and LCD mounting screws LCD Assembly Build up the LCD mount with the screen, ribbon cables, and screws. Remove the side brace and cap, then slide the LCD mount into place. Re-attach the brace and align and tighten the LCD mount. PSU Mount Insert the switch and power connector, secure, and put all the wires through. Once attached, slide the PSU into its housing and secure with three M4x10mm screws. Mount on to the aluminum frame via two T nuts. Slide the support bracket on and secure. Mainboard Insert the mainboard and secure it. Insert both wiring harness and bed connector. Attach the ribbon cables that are already attached to the LCD, and mount via four M4x30 and T-Nuts. Wire up the board, then put the 40mm fan and fan shroud in place. Finally, secure the lid. I printed this entire conversion kit in PLA, requiring only supports for the PSU mount.

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