Creality CR-10 Universal Camera Mount

thingiverse

Universal camera mount (1/4"-20 thread) designed for the Creality CR-10, but this design could probably be used on many other printers. All you need to do is change the mounting bracket. If you find that you need more thread to connect your camera, just use a longer 1/4-20 screw. Here are the materials I used: Print off the two STL files provided. I printed mine out of Fusion Filaments HTPLA at 0.3 mm layer height with no supports. -WiFi Security Camera: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073VJPMC9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 -1/2" Loc-Line Coolant Hose: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/2275 -M3 x 12mm Socket Head Cap Screws: https://www.mcmaster.com/91290a117 -1/4-20 x 1" Socket Head Cap Screw: https://www.mcmaster.com/91251a542 -M3 T-nuts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076DXGTL1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 -Fray Resistant Scissor Cut Expandable Braided Sleeving 3/4": https://www.techflex.com/general-purpose/clean-cut?product_selected=CCP0.75BK -Tesa Tape: https://www.amazon.com/Tesa-Wire-Loom-Harness-Mercedes/dp/B00EH6IZ6Y -Washers for M3 screws (optional) Mine came from a kit, so I don't know where to buy them individually. The assembly is relatively simple. After printing the two provided parts, attach the mounting bracket to your printer frame with M3 x 12mm screws and M3 T-nuts. I used a 9/16" tap to thread the hole on the bracket, although it could possibly be self-tapping (may need to increase hole size on bracket in order to achieve this). Screw the appropriate hose adapter (9/16") that comes with the Loc-Line Coolant hose into the bracket. Because the adapter has tapered threads, it doesn't screw in all the way, but it's plenty secure. Connect the hose to the adapter. Screw the 1/4-20 x 1" screw into the printed nozzle adapter so that the threads are sticking out of the end with the smaller diameter. Press-fit the printed nozzle adapter into the appropriate nozzle that comes with the coolant hose. The adapter isn't flush with the top of the nozzle, because my camera had a lip around the threaded hole on the bottom. ***IMPORTANT*** Do not connect the nozzle to the hose before screwing on the nozzle+adapter. Screw on the camera first, and then press fit the nozzle onto the hose. This way there's no risk of the adapter coming dislodged when connecting the nozzle to the hose. Optional Step: Cut a piece of 3/4" Expandable Braided Sleeving to the appropriate length and slip over cables and hose. Attach sleeving to the mounting bracket and nozzle with Tesa Tape for a clean, non-abrasive, and durable finish. TIPS: -Use the slots on the CR-10 frame for cable management. I used small strips of Tesa Tape to keep the cables in the slots. -If running a long Ethernet cable to your camera, leave the cable in a coil before you assemble and install the camera mount. I made the mistake of plugging in the cable before covering it with sleeving and had to recoil the cable in order to get it to go underneath the printer. -If you're going to use sleeving and tape to cover the hose and cables, make sure that you leave enough slack in your power and Ethernet cables. The power plug on my camera is a pretty loose fit around the plug, so if you pull on it barely, it will fall out. I pulled the cables too tight on the first mount I did and had to redo the sleeving because the power cord had a bad connection. -I couldn't find any substitute for a little bit of elbow grease for connecting pieces of the coolant hose. The nozzles and adapters aren't as challenging to connect, but the individual links in the hose are pretty hard to press in. You can guarantee that they will last a long time though--I know of coolant lines that have been on CNC mills for 30+ years with no problems, and the hoses don't really lose friction in the joints either.