Creality CR-10 S5 or S4 Y Axis lead Screw Drive System

thingiverse

This is based on my other experiences in lead screw drives. This one is for the larger CR-10 S5 and S4 series machines. It uses easily available plus easy to print parts to achieve this. This is based off the [3DLS Complete Belt-Free 3D Printer](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4031698) #[First print](https://youtu.be/r2r6bCbSP3Y) I run SKR 1.4 on my machine and this is not possible with the stock control board. What you will gain is much improved Y axis performance at the cost of a little noise due to the fact there's no more belt to dampen the motor. On my S5 I had constant issues with skipped steps and this has solved that. #BOM: These links are exactly what I used. - [BIQU S42B Closed Loop Stepper Controller](https://www.biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-s42a-42-stepper-motor-closed-loop-driver-board-with-oled-display?variant=31362657517666) - [Coupler](https://www.amazon.com/Befenybay-Aluminium-Flexible-Coupling-Connector/dp/B07RMZCLZ3) - [688-2RS-BU Bearing X1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZVF8EMU) - [608-2RS Bearing X1](https://www.amazon.com/608-2RS-Precision-Shielded-Greased-Bearings/dp/B01L7PIURQ) - [8mm Locking Collar x1](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012T3FHXK) - [8mm x 700mm 4 Start Lead Screw](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NMJYLBS) - [Anti-backlash 8mm 4 Start Nut](https://www.amazon.com/Wangdd22-backlash-Spring-Elimination-Threaded/dp/B01MR2JNT5) Print the parts in whatever you like most. You may also need longer screws to mount the motor in the print and some small screw for the bearing caps. The holes are 2.8mm for any M3 screw. I have included my firmware in the download. I changed the Y stepper driver from 1/16 steps to 1/4 for the increased torque. On Marlin 2.0 I changed the Y axis steps to 100 per mm to match the screw and set accel at 1000 and max speed at 100. You also need to invert the axis so it goes the right way. In configuration_adv.h set the hybrid threshhold to active and the Y threshold to 5. I set the current to 800. Marlin 2.0.1 configuration files from my machine are included. My machine runs RAMPS 1.6. #How to: First install the coupler on the motor. Tighten down then install the bearing in the motor mount followed by the motor and coupler. Secure with M3x10mm screws.  Next install the nut to the nut plate and secure with 4 M3x16 screws.   To mount the nut holder on the bed I used my caliper and locked it at 44mm then applied some trashy double stick tape to the nut holder. I taped it down using the caliper to align it 44mm towards the front of the machine away from the motor. I then started the 4 x M5 holes then removed the printed part and finished drilling them out.    When you're done with the drilling be sure to deburr the holes so everything sits flush and flat!   If you don't have one of these deburring tools get one. They are pretty [cheap](https://www.amazon.com/Noga-NG8150-Deburr-Original-Version/dp/B001O62V56) and will change your life forever. Once the holes are drilled I mounted the hut holder with 4 x M5x10 screws same as the ones used to mount the pieces to the frame with M5 nuts on the back. On my CR-10 S5 the bed plate is thick enough you could tap right into it but I forgot my M5 tap.   I put some super glue on the nuts to make sure they don't vibrate off. To install the bed slide the bed back onto the machine then install the nut and it's base onto the lead screw. Position it about center then slide the motor and rod over the back of the machine. Reach under and carefully push the nut into the nut holder on the bottom of the bed. Now move the whole assembly up into place on the back rail making sure the lead screw goes over the top of the front rail. Next slide a locking collar and spacer over the front end of the rod then place the front bearing holder on the front rail, do not tighten either the motor holder or front bearing to the rail yet.  It should look like that at this point. Now push the locking collar and spacer up to the front bearing so the coupler and screw are pushed tight back against the motor and tighten the lock collar. It should look like this:  Move the screw by hand till the bed is as far back as it will go then carefully tighten the screws on the motor mount down and move the bed forward as far as you can and tighten the front bearing in place on the rail so it all stays aligned. Next update and flash your firmware to setup the new motion for the screw. Test it then reinstall the bed and start printing! #Thank you!