CR10 Braces ( All CR10 Variants )

thingiverse

EDIT!! Updated!!! Currently working on adapters for folks without a lathe or means to thread the brace rods. Will require you to drill 4 3mm through holes though. Stuff's in the works. Thanks https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749760 These are my designs of the braces I saw here. The others are for a CR10, but I have a CR10 Mini, so the height and depth are different, changing the angle of the threaded rod braces. I made this design universal, although there's more work involved in them, and most people won't have a lathe or means to make adjustable rods. Also, the other braces lose 12mm or so on your Z Height, but these don't. My Mini had a 300 Z height, which I can get about 305 out of it - this varies with peoples' limit switch bed heights, etc. But at worst, I lose maybe 1mm. So I still have my manufacturer's claimed 300mm either way. The Extruder will hit the bottom of the upper Z Rod guide just before these braces hit the roller wheels on the side. So you can leave everything stock. You'll need to mirror each bracket - one for each side of the printer. The STL is for the upper and lower. Print them as I have shown in Cura, with or without supports. The vertical holes will be fine; it's the very hole on the bottom that gets stringy, but it still works. I was going to add a small cylinder in Fusion and make a pre-modeled support but didn't. If you're using S3D, you can just add a support for that one hole. These use 4mm and 5mm pan head screws with 4mm and 5mm T nuts - hammer nuts. It's a mix of the two because I had a 3-5mm kit from Amazon, and I wanted to spread their use out. Things to notice: * The brackets have an extra hole in them that lines up with the 20x20 hole. If you wish, you can remove one of the bigger bolts holding the frame together temporarily and tap the hole 5mm - giving you an extra mounting point. * There's clearance cut out where the extra hole is because my printer had at most 1mm overhang from the 20x20 to the 20x40mm. And to get by having to take it apart, mill off, or sand off, I added clearance to accommodate some factory imperfections. * There are also slight countersunk holes to allow room for the frame bolts - a few of mine stuck up past flush. * Getting the one 5mm screws in the top and the very front are tricky - you have to remove one of the frame bolts and put a T nut in, and put the bolt back. They won't rotate between the two bolt heads. I used 1/4" spherical rod ends with 1/2" aluminum rods. Drilled and taped 1/4-28 right-hand thread on one end and left-hand thread on the other so it's adjustable - that way you can use a square and get your gantry perpendicular to itself. Now I originally wanted to use 6mm hardware, but finding anything on Amazon before Xmas, I switched to English. But! 6mm hardware will still fit! The hole is about 6.2mm anyway, and I drilled it out to 1/4", so you'll just have a little more slop using metric hardware - but if you tighten it, it won't matter. The only thing is the nut hole will be a little more sloppy, but still fits. My biggest worry when I was making these was whether a fan or fang would fit. So I moved my setup to max Z and designed from there. See pictures.