CR-6 SE Top Mount Spool Filament Guide Remix

thingiverse

I'm running in an enclosure with tight restrictions, so I shortened the length of the original design's upper guide almost in half. I also wanted to use the original screws so I modified the design to accommodate. Link to original design: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4590086 There's two versions, there's one that is just shorter and there is a shorter/wider one as well. I ended up using the wider one because it lined up better with my filament run-out sensor and also more evenly with the spool location. I'm sure either would work fine though. I printed in PLA with supports and at 100% infill for extra sturdiness. However, I'm sure lower infill would work just fine. Edit: I'm also running kind of a "Frankenstein" top mount spool configuration if anyone is curious about that. I've pieced together a few different designs I've found and made something that works best for me. I'll include links to each of those if anyone is interested, and also add the STLs from the external instructables link here for easy download. You'll still need to visit the other two thingiverse project links to grab what you need from there for the holder and holder bearing mod. Spool Holder (only using the holder): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4689989/files Spool Holder Bearing Mod: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4724518 Filament Runout & Bearing Wheels: https://www.instructables.com/CR-6-SE-3D-Printer-Improvements/ *Note for the runout and bearing wheels: I'm only using the runout sensor housing, pulley wheel and lower retainer from that project. I chose to use the bearing pulley wheel from the instructables project for both upper and lower guides because it has the hole to put a couple drops of superglue in. I noticed without the superglue, sometimes the pulley would slip on the bearing and squeak. **Pro-Tip: When feeding your filament through the run-out, it'll sometimes get stuck at the extruder. The best way I've found to avoid this is to cut the end of the filament at a 45 degree angle, but so the angled part is facing the front of the printer. Never snags when I do it this way. If angled cut is facing the rear, snag. If it's facing the front, no snag. Not sure why it does this, but this works for me as a workaround. Extra parts needed for the whole project: (1) m4x10mm screw (For lower guide bearing) (1) m3x16mm screw and nut (For upper guide bearing) (2) 608z skateboard bearings (1) 5mm LED (Just the plastic head). This is optional, I just left the empty hole open on mine.