CR-6 LGX Lite and stock or MicroSwiss mount

prusaprinters

<h3>Overview:</h3><p>This mount bolts the LGX-Lite extruder directly to the CR6 strain gauge for the MicroSwiss and stock hotends.</p><p>This is a first upload so please give me feedback how this works. I am using myself the basically the same setup with the Dragon hotend.</p><p>This mount is part of a growing series to strap the LGX Lite, Orbiter V1.5 and stock hotend, MicroSwiss and Dragon hotends to the CR-6. A model using the Revo Voron is to come soon.</p><h3>Needed accessories</h3><h4>5015 blower fan</h4><p>The mount uses a 5015 blower fan. Please use the one posted here on Printables.com as part of the series:</p><p>https://www.printables.com/model/157511-cr6-5015-part-fan-shroud-dual-fang</p><p>The standard case and thus fan mount does not fit any longer. Since the 4010 blower is largely insufficient to properly cool and achieve good overhangs and bridging at reasonable print speed the fan is upgraded to a 5015 blower and a dual outlet fan shroud.</p><p>A 24V between 4000 and 6000 rpm 5015 blower fan is ideal. Higher rpm will be noisy. Also ball bearings are typically less noisy. The fan will typically be used at 60 to 80% of its maximum speed making operation nearly silent and keeping some headroom for improved cooling of overhangs and bridges.</p><h4>Daughterboard mount</h4><p>The daughterboard also interferes with the extruder and needs adaptation. Also for the daughterboard there is a special mount on Printables.org:</p><p><a href="https://www.printables.com/model/162434-creality-cr-6-daughterboard-mount">https://www.printables.com/model/162434-creality-cr-6-daughterboard-mount</a></p><h4><strong>Hot melt inserts</strong></h4><p>Contrary to the other models for the Dragon hotend this one does NOT require hotmelts.</p><h4>Bolts</h4><p>4 M3 x 10 mm bolts (plus bolts for the daughterboard and part fan shroud as explained in their respective model pages).</p><h5><strong>PTFE tube</strong></h5><p>62 mm PTFE tube for the stock hotend</p><p>46 mm PTFE tube for the MicroSwiss - I cannot measure the length, this is measured off the cad model. The tube should stick 1 mm above the mount please report when the tube length needs adjustment.</p><h3>Print instructions:</h3><p>Print in PETG, ABS, ASA or other high temperature filament. The mount cannot be printed in PLA as it will melt.</p><p>Print both the main model and the carriage plate hole template. The template will be used to drill a small hole in the carriage to easily fix the extruder motor.</p><p>Your printer has to be properly calibrated to get proper dimensional accuracy. Especially filament flow should be calibrated too high flow and the small holes will not yield the correct size, too little flow jeopardizes strength and stiffness. I advise to use the Cura “part for calibration” plugin and print the “multi-flow” test. SuperSlicer has the same test built in. For PrusaSlicer the test can be downloaded from GitHub: <a href="https://github.com/5axes/Calibration-Shapes">https://github.com/5axes/Calibration-Shapes</a> . Remark: this test uses .3mf files which have the flow settings built-in. The model should hence just be imported, sliced and printed. No flow settings for the individual bits need to be made.</p><h4><strong>Print settings:</strong></h4><ul><li>5 top and bottom layers</li><li>5 walls + alternative wall with infill</li><li>25% gyroid infill</li><li>line width 0.45 mm (outer line can be 0.4 for print quality)</li><li>no support needed</li></ul><h3>Assembling:</h3><p>Install the PTFE tube in the hotend <strong>before</strong> mounting to the strain gauge. Make sure it is properly seated against the nozzle and secured with the clip or nut.</p><p>Mount the mount to the strain gauge.</p><figure class="image image-style-align-center image_resized" style="width:50%;"><img src="https://media.printables.com/media/prints/137422/rich_content/150f62c3-1918-46f6-b6b5-2ada8f557ed5/20220319_144306.jpg#%7B%22uuid%22%3A%225b35c579-9a7b-4a5b-b9c7-3ae5725382b4%22%2C%22w%22%3A2010%2C%22h%22%3A2021%7D"></figure><p>Remove the extruder motor spacer plate (the spacer plate is included in the printed model) and insert 2 square nuts in the left vertical side.</p><p>Slide the extruder on top with the screws already inserted to avoid the extruder falling apart.</p><p>Fix to the extruder motor.</p><p>Fix the side of the extruder with 2 M3 bolts to get a very ridged mount.</p><p>Now proceed to mount the part fan and daughterboard.</p><h3>Extruder motor direction</h3><p>Since the Orbiter is a geared extruder the extruder will typically run in reversed direction (aka filament comes out instead of going in). This is easy to correct by an adjustment of the firmware or just swapping 2 motor wires. Only one of the 2 should be done. If you are unsure this YouTube will detail it out:</p><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgyNM7FQrmk"></oembed></figure><h4>Swapping wires</h4><p>Swap the 2 left hand wires OR the 2 right hand wires (not both sets of wires the motor will again turn in the same direction).</p><h4>Firmware change</h4><p>Sebazzz made a great tutorial how to change firmware of the CR-6: https://damsteen.nl/blog/2021/01/08/how-to-compile-cr6community-marlin-with-vscode-platformio Search for #define INVERT_E0_DIR and change it from false to true.</p><h3>Printing after installation</h3><p>Linear advance / Pressure advance (Marlin or Klipper respectively) must be retuned if you use these optimizations. The values will be very much lower. Sticking with the Bowden advance values will literally cause holes.</p><p>Especially retraction distance <strong>MUST </strong>be reduced significantly. Where the Bowden setup needs 3.5 to 6.5 mm retraction direct drive needs only 0.5 to 1.2 mm. Setting higher than 1.5 mm retraction values will cause molten plastic to be pulled into the hotend and thus very quick blockages. My favorite retraction tuning tool is: http://retractioncalibration.com set retraction distance to start at 0.1 mm and 0.1 mm increments.</p><h3>2022-05-08:</h3><p>Initial model upload</p>