CR-10S electronics under-mount

thingiverse

The "all-in-one" design posted by Jan_P is pretty good, but here's my take on it. This design is specifically for the CR-10S printer model, not the S4, S5, or Pro. If you have one of those models, I'm afraid this design won't work for you. Here are some key changes I made to the original design: * This design completely eliminates the LCD and control knob because they're unnecessary in my opinion. Instead, get yourself a Raspberry Pi and flash an Octopi image onto it. You'll be able to control your printer from anywhere on the network. * The main board used is the Creality 2.0 board, which is the best option for this design. * I've added a provision for a Raspberry Pi, so if you want to use Octoprint, you can easily do so. * The feet are designed with three mounting holes instead of four, which is what most CR-10 variants have. I've posted eight different models in total. Six of them are revised versions of Jan_P's original design, while one is an unmodified copy (the GX-16 mount) and the other is my own design (a blank cover). Again, this design is specifically for a CR-10S with a Creality 2.0 board. If you have a different printer model, I'm afraid these models won't work for you. Changes I made to existing models: * Removed cable tie bump things because they're unnecessary and just add to print time. * Added holes on the Raspberry Pi panel so you can zip-tie extra Z cables in a service loop. * Changed the PSU front panel to have vertical slots instead of horizontal ones. This gives you more flexibility when adjusting the power supply. * Added a 12 VDC to 5 VDC buck converter if you're using a Raspberry Pi. Assembly and wiring: * You'll need wire strippers, a soldering iron, small zip ties, and some basic tools. * Take apart the control box and take lots of pictures of every component. This will help you when assembling everything back together. * Use a handheld drill to drill out M3, M4, and M5 clearance holes/slots on each panel. * Press a nut into each counterbore on the panels with M3 hex nuts. * Assemble each panel onto the frame per the pictures. Be patient with the T-nuts! * Wire as shown in the photos. You may need to extend some wires, but that's okay. I've included a helpful diagram of the CR-10S Creality 2.0 board, which shows how the fan is wired to the bed heater output MOSFET terminals. This might seem counterintuitive, but it's not really an issue in practice. Materials needed: * Wire strippers * Soldering iron and standard accessories * Small zip ties * M5 SHCS (25 or more) * Washers * T-nuts (4-pack) * Squash balls (4-pack) * 12 VDC to 5 VDC buck converter (if using Raspberry Pi) That's it! I hope this helps you build your all-in-one printer design.