CR-10 V2 Control Box Eliminator - Standalone Conversion

thingiverse

Update- 1/15/2021: Re-uploaded the LCD box STL for the BTT TDT35 E3 screen as some users reported the existing STL was showing as corrupted. Also added the STEP files for the control box pieces so that people can use them as a base to customize the layout of the box! Update - 8/2/2020: Added an LCD box STL for the BigTreeTech TFT35 E3 screen (same dimensions as the stock LCD screen, but has some additional ports and a reset button): https://www.amazon.com/BIGTREETECH-Graphic-Display-Controller-Printer/dp/B082YPF5YV Also, from recent comments on the design, I want to clarify that this control box is specifically designed for the V2 and probably will not work with other CR-10 models without modifications. ==================================================================== This is a standalone conversion kit to remove the need for the separate control box on the CR-10 V2! I hope you find this conversion useful and that it works properly for you. A few notes regarding the requirements/suggestions for this "conversion": - I've designed the cooling fan layout in a way that's intended for the cover plate on the PSU to be removed to allow better airflow across the PSU electronics and remove the need for the 60mm cooling fan, which is LOUD. This, however, introduces an electrocution risk as some components on the PSU carry mains voltage and high capacitance. If you choose to use this same method of cooling your PSU, note that YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK! I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOU ELECTROCUTING YOURSELF BECAUSE YOU STUCK YOUR HANDS SOMEWHERE YOU SHOULDN'T HAVE. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!! To mitigate some of the risk, you could print a mesh fan cover, like this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3882445 - The internal layout for the control box is designed for an SKR 1.4 32-bit controller board (standard or "turbo" version) and a Raspberry Pi 4. You could probably make this control box work for other controller boards and RPi versions by importing and modifying the models in your favorite 3D modeling program. - The LED ribbon cable pinouts on the SKR 1.4 are "flipped" from how they're set up on the stock CR-10 V2 board. To accommodate this, you'll need to remove the plastic housings around the "EXP1" and "EXP2" pins so that the ribbon cables can be inserted upside down (you can reinstall the plastic housings upside down if you wish, but this is not required). This can be done either on the connectors on the SKR board or the LCD circuit board. However, only flip one side of the connection, not both. - The SKR board is wired to a relay, which is connected to GPIO on the Raspberry Pi, so that it can be turned on through OctoPrint using the PSU Control plugin. You could wire this directly to the power supply without a relay if you wanted the controller board to be on all the time. - The 120mm fans are wired to the PSU, through a 12v buck converter, to run constantly in my configuration. They're quiet enough that I don't mind them running all the time. However, if you wish for these fans to only run when the controller board is powered up, you could wire them to the controller board instead or to the 12v fan output on the PSU so that they come on through the PWM feature built into the PSU. - I've included a second relay to handle turning on LED light strips through GPIO and the OctoPrint Enclosure plugin. If you have another means of lighting up your print area, or you don't care about lighting up your print area, you can forgo the need for this second relay. Enjoy!