CR-10 stabiliser and support

cults3d

It stops the 'drop' on the X carriage and means you don't have to get motor lead screw wire etc. It's just another option READ INSTRUCTIONS FULLY FIRST, READ THEM AGAIN. Print the parts. List of parts needed to fit it 8 x 5mm T Nuts 8 x 5mmx10 dome socket head screws 2 x 5mmx35mm Socket head screws 1 x 5mmx40mm Socket head screw 6 mm washers 3 5mm nuts 3.2mm Drill To clear the holes out on the bearing bracket 2 LM8 linear bearings. 8mm ROD 570mm long (Pick your own type of rod.) Tools files etc. DO NOT TIGHTEN ANYTHING UNTIL ALL PARTS ARE FITTED. REMOVE THE CABLES FROM THE Z AND X MOTORS File/sand the bearing holder so the LM8 bearings slid in tight. Put the circlip in, or use your own. Clear drill the 3 holes in the plate. Undo the 2 screws holding the plate on On the right side undo the screw holding the top outside wheel on, Poke it out with the alan key, Use a 35mm m5 and replace the screw, put a spare washer in then the lock nut and tighten it up. Do the same with the bottom wheel. On the single left wheel use the 5mmx40mm , remeber to put a washer on before the lock nut. Replace the plate. Now put the printed bearing holder on and use a washer and nut on each screw end Use the T nuts to put the base plate on and do the same with the top bracket. Feed the 8mm rod down through the top, through the bearing holder and into the base plate. Now start to tighten the T nuts and plate nuts a little at a time so the whole thing lines up. Test it by moving the X carriage up and down, as you tighten it up. Replace motor wires and test though the firmware doing a Z adjust. The longer base plate has the arrow facing the upright. This pushed up against the upright. The smaller on is for anyone who has alignment problems