CR-10 S5 Heating plan

thingiverse

This is not a printed object, but I was using it to try to, at least theoretically, rebuild my Creality CR-10 S5's heated bed with several 24V PTC heating elements instead of the original 300x300mm aluminum 12V heating element. It is doable, but I didn't have the funds at the time, and since The Mythosaur Project (CR-10 S5) was my only functional 3D printer, I didn't want to mess with anything, especially not the firmware. So, this is a theory for how the heating on a 500x500mm bed could be rearranged, and how the bed could be strengthened with right angle or H-bar aluminum "undergirders". As far as I could tell, the aluminum H-bar, U-channel, and L-channels are dimensionally accurate to the ones that I was planning on purchasing from the hardware store. If I had gone ahead with this project, I would have bought the BTT Octopus mainboard to replace the CR-10 S5 stock mainboard, upgraded to silent stepper drivers, rebuilt the firmware, upgraded to a 600W or 800W 24V PSU, upgraded the hotend to the Ender 3 IDEX system, put in 300degree Celsius hotends, enclosed the printer, and reworked the Y-axis for dual-drive belts.