CR-10 S5 Bed Weight Loss Program! [A guide on how to improve performance by cutting weight]

CR-10 S5 Bed Weight Loss Program! [A guide on how to improve performance by cutting weight]

thingiverse

This is how I trimmed 5lbs 14oz [2.66KG] from the Y axis on my CR-10 S5. This is all about boosting reliability and performance! You'll need: - Naphtha, pre-cleaner, or wax and grease remover - A build surface sheet like this one - Spot putty like this Check out the weight savings! ![bedweight](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/siNBR5Dt64WqjGs/preview) First I got rid of the glass, leaving me with a metal bed and screws recessed into it. ![bed1](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/sx6fMEZJKTB7D2A/preview) I had to fix the holes for the screws and chose to use Bondo Spot Putty. This will be easily removable with a screwdriver if I ever need to access these screws again. I considered epoxy but that would be permanent. ![putty](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/pXAkWPbCRexQw8x/preview) First, prep is essential. Make sure your machine is off and cool, and do this in a well-ventilated area. Both the putty and pre-cleaner are flammable! I used 240 grit sandpaper to prep the screw heads and holes. Don't want the putty to just fall out! ![prep](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/QLzNKANrsRGmkkG/preview) With the holes sanded, I wiped them down with Naphtha. This is available at most hardware stores. It's also sold as wax and grease remover in the paint section. This will remove the grit and grease, leaving a nice surface for putty. Next, apply the putty. Keep it thin. I used cardstock paper to smooth it over. You want it to be a bit over the bed surface so you can sand it flat later and have no low spots on the bed when done. ![filldetail](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/gb2Pdk48kKe4zTm/preview) ![fill](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/3BKtQeaPWtP2MoQ/preview) With the holes filled, give it 4 hours to cure. Once it's all turned to a lighter shade and fully cured, you can start to sand it down flat. Use a sanding block here! Can just be a piece of wood with sandpaper wrapped around it, just so you stay flat. ![sandingblock](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/RDjx4bKEtG7RqLM/preview) ![sanding](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/mD2CDsCppNoESpR/preview) With that done, clean it one more time with warm water and clean towels to remove the sanding dirt. With it all sanded flat and clean, you can apply the build sheet over the metal. This will provide a durable easy-to-use surface for your prints to bond to, easy to clean and long lasting. When putting down such a large sheet, start by peeling one edge of the paper off the back just about 2 inches. ![sheetstart](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/ST9NpKfS7Bjoa9c/preview) Apply this along the back edge lining it up carefully. Then slowly pull the backing out from under the build sheet while using your hand to work it down flat with no trapped air under it. ![sheetapply](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/xQzWmEjNTcnRC7C/preview) ![moresheet](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/qBN2GbcqAFoj99S/preview) Soon you'll have a perfectly applied build surface ready for use! ![done](https://nextcloud.thiscloudiscrap.com/index.php/s/oKQCCs7wpPwgWMt/preview) With all this done, you're ready to go! You can try upping your speeds now that you have much less weight to sling around during the print!

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