CR 10 S Enclosure - metal frame cabinet

thingiverse

CR 10 S ENCLOSURE METAL FRAME CABINET See also: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3233857 or https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3230158 SQUARE PIPE 40X40X1.5mm STANDARD CR 10 S - No alteration to original - out of the box design! UPDATE 31 OCT 2018 Since it is warm like an oven inside the enclosure, I will find a solution to have the spool move in; it will make obsolete the use of a spool enclosure and keep the filament warm and dry! Probably only the spools made of recycled PLA will need to be kept out, since it can get too hot for them. It will work for me! And if your printer takes too long to warm up, just cover the print bed with two sheets of paper A4. It will warm up faster. Remove them when print process starts! However, it's not a guarantee for the quality of the adhesion of part to the print bed! Warning! This is a fire hazard! RECOMMENDATION: If you build the cabinet, best position for control box support is below the cable window - on my build is below filament window! If you consider buying in the future a bigger printer, make sure the space bellow can accommodate it... therefore you will have an enclosure already built. Have already the hinges welded in place!!! - remaining to have the door frame made when you decide to upgrade to a bigger printer! See pictures of my frame - do not weld - lower section - front and left middle - profile! Build the filament and cable window also! (cable window - if you have plans to buy a printer with external control box - eg. CR class). Try to come close to the future printer size/shape you may buy!!! 7th OCT Everything looks fine! The enclosure manages to keep an environment print-friendly, took 13-14 minutes to heat and start the print process - to 90 Celsius. The ABS fumes are kept inside - no bad odor coming from my cabinet! And a plus - noise reduction. Still frustrating not to be able to see the print process - Plexiglas update coming soon... 6th OCT Enclosure is complete, and first print in progress. I will have to replace the poly-carbonate sheet for front door with some Plexiglas, however I was curious to see how it's working. Current job is on ABS! One door seems to be ok (front door)! Measure your final location access door, to ensure the cabinet can pass! The CR10 control box support can be made detachable in case you have problem with the build size! Some limitation on Z axis due to length of the cable. If this is a problem - X cables can be fit via "filament window". For "filament window" I use two strips of linear brushes. 1ST OCT Frame is done. And already painted! Unfortunately I welded the hinges for the front door on the "diamond" (contact surface) of the 2nd door. Therefore I will have only one door! So... if you want the 2nd door, weld the hinges for the 1st door on the left side (door will become left hand door). SEPT 29 Use the design as a guideline. The filament spool is mounted outside. Same goes for the controller. I use this type of profile since I have some left from other project. Feel free to use different profile size; if so... recalculate accordingly! 4 X 1500 6 X 620 11 X 640 4 X 540 6 X 650 2 X 720 1 X 180 2 X 310 1 X 160 Use metal hinges to connect the doors. Use poly-carbonate sheet to make the enclosure. Use wheels for mobility. Fell free to support my projects! https://pinshape.com/items/44114-3d-printed-cr-10-s-enclosure