CR-10 or Mini to Prusa i3 conversion kit

cults3d

###This is a set of files to upgrade a CR-10 mini into a type of Prusa Machine.### ####Why this mod?#### I have three machines running like this; I did it for space saving and the Prusa extruder, I want to be able to use the same GCodes on all my machines, having the same physical extruder helps. In the end, if you're brave enough, you'll have a cleaner CR-10 machine capable of printing any material with better print quality. ####Main Changes#### Board moved to back left PSU moved to back right LCD moved to front SSR moved to the base of the PSU box New Prusa MK2 extruder system based on a modified Prusa extruder part that will be screwed directly to the CR-10 X L plate. (Two holes and one embedded threaded removed) ####Heatedbed#### On my machines, I use PEI directly over the aluminium bed; usually these beds have a depression in the center so a sledge is used, sometimes I use one of those thick bed springs at the center. Ideally we would use a central screw but it involves drilling the bed and I haven't had the courage yet. So since we have a fixed central point we insert the spring and then lower the other four points until the bed is flat and leveled. Then we set the Z endstop height. ####Extruder#### The best extruder is the modified Prusa, I'm including the modded part; the rest you can get from the Prusa website or GitHub, it's the MK2S version There is another extruder bracket included that will allow you to use the original CR-10 hot end. I gave up on this road but still included it here so it might be useful; it works fine with a 50mm radial fan blowing directly into the heatsink, not much refinement has been done on this. If you are mounting the Prusa extruder, the last picture shows the holes used to fix the extruder to the X-Carriage plate on the machine. You will have to use the printed part as a template to make the holes; align by the right side, use a clamp or vise to secure and drill two 3mm holes. The bolts will come from behind to the nuts that will be embedded in the part. You will use many of the embedded bolts to secure the other extruder parts so don't be afraid to assemble and disassemble several times until you find the right sequence to do it. ####Cooling fans#### The SSR will get the air pulled by the PSU fan The board has no fans; it might be a good idea to install a fan sucking air in the outside of the box, although I have printed long hours with PLA and haven't seen any significant temperature increase without the fans. The Prusa extruder uses two fans, one 30x30mm and one radial 50mm ####Board#### My minis have the Melzi 1.12 if I'm not mistaken; to make this mod work on a 10-S or a 10, you should check if your board will fit the board box. ####Wiring#### You will need to disassemble your printer, take pictures and take notes. The cables from the board to the extruder are the most important ones; it's better to use some cable ties to keep them organized. ####Firmware#### I use stock Marlin If you're using a different firmware, make sure to update it before running this mod ####Conclusions...#### I've used these printers to print repetitive parts; last time they worked for a week non-stop with no problems whatsoever. The last machines I modded took me one day of work each; there is much soldering, testing, assembling and disassembling... ####Change Log#### Added the Fusion360 files so anyone can mess around with the designs. Please re-share! Added .factory files and GCodes for a Prusa i3mk2s PET and ABS parts Added the Prusa extruder holder (without Pinda holder version); this version is stronger, if you're not going to use a bed probe, this is better than the other version.