CR-10 Dual Z with top mounted stepper

thingiverse

Last spring, I upgraded my CR-10 with the dual Z upgrade and installed a brand-new belt-driven dual Z setup. For weeks, I struggled with bed leveling as the steppers went out of alignment for no apparent reason. Drawing inspiration from Caster's YouTube video (thing 2569379), I designed and built my own belt-driven dual Z setup. After months of use, I can confidently say this is the best modification I've made to my CR-10. Now, I only re-level the bed when I change build surfaces. One problem with the previous design was that it over-constrained the left side lead screw. I spent a lot of time using calipers and a straight edge to ensure the Z stepper and upper bearing mounts were perfectly aligned with the lead screw nut, so this wouldn't cause any print issues. My new design aims to resolve this problem by relocating the Z stepper to the top of the frame and allowing the lead screws to float at the bottom. I didn't like driving set screws into the threads of the lead screws, so I designed alternative ways to attach the pulleys. I secured the wiring extension with 1" lengths cut from the extrusion inserts that came with the printer. If you split them down the back side, they'll wrap around the wiring and allow you to secure it in the frame slots. There's plenty of room to run this down the right extrusion, and the X carriage bracket clears it without issue. **Parts List (for CR-10S):** BIQU GT2 Synchronous Wheel 60 Teeth 8mm Bore Aluminum Timing Pulley for 3D Printer 6mm Width Belt (Pack of 2pcs) Link: http://a.co/eORAb49 BIQU GT2 5mm Bore Aluminum Toothless Timing Belt Idler Pulley for 3D Printer 6mm Width Timing Belt (Pack of 5pcs) Link: http://a.co/2LMLfJs BEMONOC Pack of 2pcs GT2 Driver Belt 900-2GT-6 Timing Belt in Closed Loop Rubber <b>L=900mm</b> W=6mm 450 Teeth Link: http://a.co/1px2mDt Qunqi 5PCS Aluminum GT2 Timing Belt Pulley 20 Teeth Bore 5mm Width 6mm and Wrench for RepRap 3D Printer Prusa i3 Link: http://a.co/hLGLZjm 20-Pack 608 ZZ Ball Bearings, 608zz Metal Double Shielded Miniature Deep Groove Skateboard Ball Bearings (8mm x 22mm x 7mm) Link: http://a.co/xy2c4z5 **Hardware:** (2) M5x20 screws for the stepper mount idlers. Just thread them into the plastic. (2) M5 washers for under the stepper idlers to keep them from rubbing on the mount (4) M5x8 screws with t-nuts to attach the stepper mount to the frame (4) M4x20 screws with t-nuts for mounting the bearing brackets to the frame (4) M4x6 button head cap screws with the head filed down to about 6.5mm diameter (chuck it up in a drill and run it over a file). These are only if you're using the 60T pulley adapters provided. Alternatively, just use the set screws. (4) M3 locknuts for Below_Bearing_Clamp_x2 and 8mm_60T_GT2_Clamp_x2 (4) M3x10 for Z_Bearing_Mount_x2. They screw into the sides to lock the bearing in place. (4) M3x10 to attach the stepper motor (4) M3 washers for the stepper motor screws (2) M3x12 for Below_Bearing_Clamp_x2 (2) M3x20 for 8mm_60T_GT2_Clamp_x2 **Firmware Changes Are Required.** You can do this at least two ways. 1. Edit Marlin 1.1.8 line 532 and change the 400 to 1200. 2. From a terminal, send commands: M92 Z1200 to set the Z steps/mm then M500 to save the setting. **Note:** You will likely lose some Z height with this modification depending on how your X carriage wiring is set up. Please let me know if you build this. I'd love to hear how it works out.