CR-10 (all Vers.) Beastmod / Stand Alone Mod

thingiverse

N3verless' CR-10 Beastmod (All Versions) UPDATE: THIS MOD WON'T BE UPDATED ANYMORE BECAUSE I'M WORKING ON THE BEASTMOD V2! :D Not all parts are included in this mod. I am going to include everything soon! Everyone knows the CR-10 is not a bad printer out of the box. Big volume, cheap parts, and a huge community are just a few benefits from this monster of a printer. But the CR-10 does also have a few flaws, for example loud steppers, a control box that's based on the user's view, and a (not very hard) wobbly frame. My idea was to create a useful modded CR-10 version that doesn't require any changes to the firmware and just basic knowledge in soldering, maybe some drilling – so, just be a normal 3D-print-it-tinker-everything-guy and you'll be okay. For information: I have a CR-10 5S myself, so all of it is pretty much based on this printer but also works on all CR-10 that share the same control box. Note: There is a list of parts you have to buy at the end! My thoughts: Frame: The frame of the CR-10 is built out of 2020 profiles and "ok" stiff. This mod adds a few corners and braces for the CR-10 to get more stiff. Control Box: Get rid of the control box was one of the most important tasks to do. The control box houses the display, the MELZI board, and the PSU. All together there are 3 fans who can be pretty noisy. With the Beastmod, you can get rid of the loud fans, can place the display somewhere you want, and just don't have the control box anymore. Yay! (Soldering see in the description in the files, I am going to do a PDF and video also) PFTE + Cables: No chain, but a simple cable holder to hold the cable and PFTE over the printer bed. Simple. Steppers: Just buy stepper dampers. You can choose to change the Z-motors too, but it's just a nice to have (and also turn the printer into an unbearable thing). Printhead: You have to change the 40mm fan and the fan duct, and you're done. For 101%, you can cut out the fan grid. Also, you can print a newer fan duct that will make everything a bit better. Z-Stop: For better leveling, you should use the adjustable endstop. Small mod getting big things done. Awesome. Spool: Just screw the original spool on top of the printer: Work is done, no filament and rocket science. After this, the CR-10 is an even more solid printer and looks a bit more professional. I am going to add: * Cable chains * LED mounting * Filament filter * Filament guide * Extruder dust cover * Everything else that comes in my head to help the printer! Things you need to buy: * M4 and M3 screws, washers, nuts... Get a few packages for later work. * M4 Hammerhead Nuts (50-pack from Amazon will do) * XXXmm rod for the frame brace * 2x 60mm Fan (Sunon 60x60x15mm HA60151V4-999 DC 12V) for the power supply and main box * 1x 40mm Fan (Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX 12V Attention: Look out, there is also a 5V version. You have to buy the 12V Version) * 2-3 meters of 16 gauge / 1.5 mm cable