CR-10/10S/Ender3 FANG for 5015 Fan - Smooth Design

thingiverse

<h3>UPDATES:</h3> <u>2019.02.11</u> Fellow maker frankybuilds created a new Ender 3 mount solution for my fang, including versions with and without an EZABL attachment. It requires fewer parts and seems very easy to print. I haven't tested it since I don't own an Ender 3, but it looks promising. Please give it a try! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3419869 <u>2018.10.16</u> If you want to use my fang design with an Ender 3 printer, please try the mount plate that D3Dorsett created here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3157597 <u>2018.09.16</u> I added a cable holder variant that prevents the bowden tube & cables from sliding left and right during the movement of the x-axis. You don't need this cable holder, but it keeps everything in place and tidy. Check the images. You can lock the holder using an M3x22 screw or with a zip tie. ___________________________________ <h3>Short Description:</h3> I created this smooth air duct fang for the Creality CR-10/10S printers for those who want to upgrade to a 5015 part cooling fan. You can use it with ozfunghi's air duct assembly, which can be found here: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2763931">CR-10 FANG OEM fan duct assembly</a> You will need the following parts from ozfunghi's set to use my design: - V2-FANG-oz-carriage-plate - V2-FANG-oz-40mm-duct - FANG-oz-carriage-plate-clip The assembly requires 3M screws. _________________________________ <h3>Detailed Description:</h3> I like ozfunghi's assembly set for its modularity and sturdiness. However, after printing his V2 Fang and running my printer through various tests, I noticed it performed poorly with overhangs due to the fang not pointing close enough to where the nozzle actually prints. I decided to upgrade to a 5015 fan and use ozfunghi's V3 fang but didn't have a 5015 mount. Also, since the V3 fang has steeper overhangs at the tip, I couldn't print it. So, I modeled a new fang with a 5015 mount from scratch. Instead of using boolean operations (the way ozfunghi's fang models are made), I modeled mine in one piece using sub-d modeling. This way, the transitions of the shapes are smooth and especially help with airflow (transition of mount to airduct, air divider). The tips of the fang look similar to ozfunghi's V3 fang but are spread apart slightly more (helps remove harsh overhangs). They also point less at the nozzle itself but more towards the printed part. This fang also allows the use of a 40x20 extruder fan instead of 40x10 because there is more clearance space between the fan and the air ducts compared to ozfunghi's design. Check the comparison photos in the comments section regarding that. Overall, I'm very happy with how it turned out. I can now print much better overhangs and get better detail in general. __________________________ <h3>Print Information:</h3> My design is optimized for printing without supports; simply print it in the orientation of the file. The mount transitions to the air duct in a smooth slope without harsh overhangs. Even the "air divider" inside is printed as a bridge. I went through many iterations and test prints to get there. I advise using a single layer brim for better bed adhesion. Make it 0mm distance to the part and give the brim 4-5 outlines. This way, it will give the print more surface to stick to the bed while it's still easy to remove once it's printed. Further settings solely depend on how you want to print it or how well your printer is calibrated. I printed mine in PLA with 2 outer perimeters and 20% infill without any problems. You can print it in 0.2mm layer height, but I recommend 0.15mm for a smoother surface and thus less air friction. Happy printing, and please let me know how it works for you. If you find the time, please post your makes - I'd love to see them!