Cowabunga! Foam Dart Blaster

thingiverse

This is an epic blaster named Cowabunga, designed specifically for short dart (Talon) systems. The standout feature of this design is its use of a smaller solenoid than most other solenoids. The solenoid I've chosen is roughly half the size of the popular 35mm ones, but it performs flawlessly at just 15mm stroke. You can get the hardware directly from my Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/RadBlasters/ Other than that feature, Cowabunga is essentially a primary blaster crammed into its smallest possible form factor. Fully built, this blaster can reach speeds of 130-140 FPS on 4x Honeybadger motors, and it's also select-fire capable. If you're reading this, I bet you're eager to start printing. Here's a guide for every part and how I currently print them: Top Receiver - This is the main piece of the blaster. I print it upside down so that the top of the receiver is on the build plate. I add enough support to ensure the area that slopes behind the stock attachment is supported. The less support the better, as this is a very visible part. Print at your desired resolution with 4 perimeters and at least 40% infill. Don't print this faster than 50mm/s. Grips - I print these flipped and upright. You can also print them on their sides with the triangles pointing up, but you risk losing some details on the switch mounts. Print with 4 perimeters and 20% infill. Battery Compartment - Print just as it sits on the blaster. You can get away with no supports, but make sure your printer can bridge the divider that is on top. 4 perimeters and 20% infill. Brace - This is a critical component as most of the blaster bolts to it. Print as it sits on the blaster with supports touching buildplate. You want to ensure the supports remove cleanly in the motor section so the motors sit flush. 4 perimeters and at least 50% infill. Magwell- This will likely print fine for you with no supports. 4 perimeters and 20% infill. Dart Guide - This is the triangle piece. The intention is to epoxy on the solenoid, centered just below the plunger rod. This guides the next dart in line forward so that it clears the rod when in reset position. You won't need this if you're running it as semi-auto. Rev Switch - Designed to slide over the tab of a 15/21a microswitch. You can either glue it in place or put a slight bend in the tab so the rev switch stays on. Trigger - Basically floats between the two sides of the grip, allowing you to run one long screw from one side or short screws from both sides for a pivot. Use a screw with a smaller OD than the trigger's ID. FINAL NOTES; I've put a ton of time into trying to make this blaster as rad as possible. I'm very happy with the results, but I am not a designer by trade. There may be small issues with the models that I couldn't get quite right. Hopefully, if you folks with more talent than me are going to build this, you'll help me out with some sweet remixes! Keep track of everything rad on my Instagram and @ me with your builds!: https://www.instagram.com/radblasters/