Cosmoneer Proto

thingiverse

The Space Pioneer Proto is the first hackable robotic spacecraft platform using off-the-shelf components and the widely accepted Arduino interface to provide a fun, learning space-like environment. Space has never been closer! You can program and interact with basic spacecraft systems consisting of Command & Control, Power, Attitude Control, and Communications all in a simulated zero-gravity environment. Still in its infancy, the Space Pioneer Proto aims to bring the challenges of a spacecraft down to your desktop. Want to get involved? Visit the forums! http://spacepioneering.com/community/ Print Settings Printer Brand: 3D Systems Printer: Cube 3 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 200 microns Infill: Depends on part Notes: The parts shown are silver ABS and were printed on a modified Cube 3 with a heated borosilicate glass print bed that is clamped to the original aluminum bed with the white plastic coating removed. The print settings for the part types are as follows: Hollow & Cross (Cube 3D glue & 95degC 1st layer, 85degC remainder of part) Dash mount Balancer Inner hanger Almost Solid & Diamonds (Cube 3D glue & 95degC 1st layer, no heat remainder of part) Coil holder PCB arms The four PCBs are custom cut from commercially available double-sided 20mm X 80mm prototype boards. The 2mm thick acrylic dash is cut on a Roland Modela MD-15, but could be laser-cut. Fasteners used are 1.6mm x 6mm machine screws (to attach the rear PCBs to the dash), 2.0mm x 8mm machine screws w/nut and washer to attach the 3D-printed dash mount to the main Space Pioneer Proto PCB. Standard straight male header pins are used to attach the PCB arms to the front lower PCB ends. The clear globe is a 100mm acrylic sphere and can be found online at HobbyLobby or some other craft outlets, including Amazon. Beware, the globes are fragile, so you may receive a broken or cracked one! Post-Printing Gathering Project Components The Space Pioneer Proto needs more than 3D printed parts to be completed. This Thingiverse project centers around the Space Pioneer Proto design, which started as an open-source project from off-the-shelf components and a custom PCB design. While you can build it from scratch, we offer a barebones kit to help you complete the project: http://spacepioneering.com/product/barebones-space-pioneer-proto-kit/ Otherwise, the project centers around a custom PCB we developed that can be found here: https://github.com/spacepioneering/Space-Pioneer-Proto This PCB is designed around the following boards: Arduino Pro Mini 5v 16Mhz Board GY-271 HMC5883L 3-axis Magnetometer Board PCA9685 16 Channel 12-bit PWM Servo Driver Board MCP2120 Serial IrDa Board Additional boards used by the project are: MX-3i 3A Brushless ESC 5v-4.3v SuperBurst Battery Replacer Board 5v wireless inductive power module The project also uses a 5g servo, a surplus brushless floppy drive motor, ten LEDs, and various support electronics to hook it all together. The sphere and inner hanger provide you with two options to attach the Cosmoneer. I like the sphere myself, which is what ultimately drove the need for the SuperBurst board. The Gyro motor pulled too much current across the air gap when the Space Pioneer Proto was in the sphere. I didn't want to add a battery that would eventually wear out, so I opted for something that provided instantaneous power like a battery, but could also be charged instantly and thousands of times. A low ESR Super Capacitor fit this role perfectly! Assembly Tips Full assembly instructions on Instructables are found here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Space-Pioneer-Proto/ The upper ends of the front PCBs are soldered to the nearest holes in the main PCB (watch the silkscreen markings for alignment.) The Balancer is super-glued to the top of the 5g servo. This is best done AFTER the servo is screwed to the dash mount. The rear side PCBs should have the respective holes tapped to accept the 1.6mm screws. While you don't have to tap the pilot holes in the dash mount, it does make it easier to assemble. Suggest you start both screws into the PCBs before you attempt to attach them. If you don't want to use a sphere, you can attach the inner hanger via screws, thin (0.5mm) washers, and nuts.