Corona virus mask fast print mask

thingiverse

I made this mask to shield myself from getting someone's saliva on my nose or mouth. It's essentially a spit guard. Paper has no antibacterial properties that I know of. Use it at your own risk. You know how it goes. I place a sheet of printer paper on my printer bed, held down with just four little pieces of tape, and hit print. I have to recalibrate the printer to the extra thickness of this sheet of paper but with my cheap Prusa clone printer, I just turn the Z-axis screw 1/4 turn and get a perfect print. I leave the setting on draft quality in the Cura slicer and print at 100 percent infill. It's a no-brainer really! This will print perfectly for you if you're using a feeler gauge like I do to calibrate nozzle height. It prints in under 26 minutes at 60mm print speed or faster if your printer can handle it. You must have a 21cm print bed though. If you scale it down too much, like for a child, the arms will probably be too weak. Let me know and I'll fix it right away. Today I'm adding a part that lets you use a rubber band to fit the mask snugly to your face. It prints in about six minutes. You can now use any hair band or rubber band set you have handy. This mod gives a real snuggle fit to your face. I've also added the file to print just the mask alone. There are goggles available now too. You can print these out and use transparent plastic from your kitchen, like food wrap. Just tape down some plastic wrap to a flat surface and slide the goggle lens under it. You must keep the film tightly stretched out. Then just snap on the top plate and maybe glue it to the eight piercing posts if your printer isn't printing them out well enough. If you can find thermal retractive film plastic, you're in luck! Give it a little heat with a hair dryer and you'll have a tight fit from the film to the frame of the goggles. More choices on the length of the face mask arms are available now, to be used with rubber bands. It's necessary to make the one that fits best with the pair of rubber bands you find. It's not always easy to find two that are exactly the same, as it was in my case. If possible, make them with flexible PLA for more comfort. I've added more face mask arm link lengths. The size goes up about a cm as you go up in version. I've added more versions of possible solutions to fitting the mask on using other types of material. For example, a hair ribbon or an elastic band or similar flat-faced strap like material, eg a flat shoe lace. Face mask arms version 4.0 permits the use of two elastic bands so as to better center the mask to your face and keep your ears from taking so much abuse. I've added a thicker frame version of the goggles. It was made thicker to accommodate the thickness of 9mm white foam window sealing tape. I've also added a piece that lets you print directly over a piece of cloth. This is basically a C-clamp that can be used to hold down thin clothing material to the printer bed. They have a mouth opening of 3mm. I tested printing over a piece of pillowcase I had laying around, and it worked perfectly well. There are plenty of videos online about how to print directly over t-shirt material and others. Non-stretch fabric works best, but you can even use denim from cut-up jeans. Raise your Z-height about half a turn on the Z-axis end-stop adjustment screw and you're good to go. You don't need to heat the bed at all – yes, print on cold bed! Also increase the extruder temp to 225 degrees for PLA, and if you want, you can increase your flow rate to 200. This will really make the plastic stick to the fiber. I also tested with the standard PLA setting of the printer (190 degrees for the hot end and 60 degrees for the printer bed), and that worked just fine too. It really comes down to how well you know how to calibrate your printer bed. If you're not using a feeler gauge or similar to set nozzle height, you're just wasting time and plastic. Really...