Corne HiPro case with tenting

thingiverse

I liked the look of mburrows high profile case but wanted tenting like on the IMK so I added the tenting mounts. This is definitely a project and may not be plug and play right off the printer. Be prepared to do some minor sanding and possibly buy new standoffs for the top plate. # About My Model ### The Case I don't have fusion 360 so I worked with the original mesh and modeled the mounting holes doing a boolean merge to recreate the mesh. Because of this, my remix has all the quirks or limitations of the original. ### Tenting points The holes for the tenting points are set to 5mm allowing some shrinkage. This is to allow the option to drill and tap whatever size you want. Mine came out at 4.5mm which is the size needed to tap for m5 screws. There is just enough space between the hole and the body of the case to allow nuts to be above and below the tenting holes. If you don't wish to thread these you can rely on the nuts. ### Top plate The top plate is interesting. It is 5mm thick which is the distance from the top face of the plate to the top face of the pcb. However, I pocketed out a space leaving a 1.5mm lip for the switch clips to snap into place locking the switch into place. NOTE: I increased the size of the switch holes to 14.28mm to account for shrinkage of internal perimeters. My printers output was 13.98mm which is just enough to hold the switches snug with no movement without bending or distorting the switch or plate. # Hardware and build limitations * 5mm threaded rod. I used two at 70mm and two at 25mm and you can see that all but one of the shorter rods are flush with the top. Buy more than you need and cut the rods to size. You can also just use bolts if you have them. Also get something to give the rods grip on slick surfaces, rubber thread protectors work great and can be cut down for the shorter side. * Top plate. Either the acrylic, pcb or printed. My version requires that your board be using SMD's as opposed to throw hole diodes. However, you can set my plate to stop printing at 3mm to get the right size if using through hole. * Standoffs. Depending on your top plate you'll need to figure this out on your own. I think the original case was designed to have the pcb sitting on the bottom of the case, this caused problems with my kailh sockets, so I used 5mm standoffs. Even so, with these short standoffs I had to dremmel a space for my TRRS cable. Like I said, the og case has its quirks.