CoreXY Power Carriage

thingiverse

This is the carriage I designed for my custom CoreXY printer. It features a compact design, aimed at taking advantage of HIP's high temperature melting point to minimize the spacing between the block and the carriage plate, thus allowing me to use an original Vulcan block and heat break from E3D combined with a regular MK8 direct drive, and achieving very similar performance as my original Titan Aero that I have in my other printer. Notice the following: the spacing between the smooth rods is 59mm from center to center, which can be adjusted in Fusion 360. If you want to use a clone heat break, notice that you will need to print "Lower Guide For Clone Barrel.stl" to match the 6mm end. If you are using an original E3D heat break, you may need to expand your MK8 aluminum plate threaded hole from 6mm to 7mm. This can be achieved with a 6mm drill bit and a 7mm male hole maker (also known as a step drill). Either way, you should make some small dents in the upper part of the thread to stop the heat break from going through. To do this, simply put the tip of a Phillips screwdriver right next to the top end of the threaded hole and hit it carefully with a hammer to deform the end of the screw and block the heat break. (See Capture.png) Measure the NEMA 17 body to match the one I'm using, or edit the brace - it's essential to get a tight fit there. If you can match the combo of hob and idler I'm using, you will get great performance for flex filaments. Required parts: 1. MK8 direct drive (6 or 7mm thread for heat break) with heatsink and fan 1. Vulcan heat break with thermistor and cartridge 1. E3D heat break 1. NEMA 17 medium torque stepper motor 3. LMU8 bearings 1. BLTouch 1. Centrifugal fan 2. M3 screws with nuts and a few washers 3. M2 or less tiny screws to hold the bracket to the plate 1. Big wood screw to hold the cables from the cable holders - get creative here! Some Teflon tube to fill the lower guide, upper guide, and filler screw. Some Amazon items I found that match what I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/Widewing-Geeetech-Extruder-Aluminum-for1-75mm/dp/B07D3TH2Y8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1528074107&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=mk8+geeetech&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/SoundOriginal-Humidifier-Aromatherapy-Appliances-Replacement/dp/B071WMHNG5/ref=pd_sim_328_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B071WMHNG5&pd_rd_r=B8JP879177YK2B8F2C5P&pd_rd_w=6N2kN&pd_rd_wg=TFiwh&psc=1&refRID=B8JP879177YK2B8F2C5P&dpID=51cWTBpsDFL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0773MW3X7/ref=sspa_dk_detail_9?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0773MW3X7&pd_rd_wg=TFiwh&refRID=Y2W9KZG6M4N8T4H7P5J If you want to use the Gulfcoast Robotics hobbed gear, note that you will need to print "Lower Guide For Clone Barrel.stl" to match the 6mm end. https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Filament-Printer-Extruder/dp/B07BSR9FWH/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527594418&sr=1-3&keywords=3d+printer+hobbed+gear https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Heat-Break-1-75mm-V6-175-BREAK/dp/B077Y2MHW8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1527594748&sr=8-5&keywords=e3d+heatbreak https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-E3D-Volcano-Block-Heater/dp/B07BFYL3KN/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1527594389&sr=8-10&keywords=e3d+volcano https://www.amazon.com/Hobby-Hangar-NEMA-Stepper-Motor/dp/B079S6JGG3/ref=sr_1_22?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1527594487&sr=1-22&keywords=nema+17